First Passage

We have completed a short passage -- and my first sail aboard Avalon -- from Auckland to Marsden Cove Marina, about 80 miles north.

Here, we will wait until Monday morning, and then motor up the Hatea River to Whangarei where we have an appointment to have the boat hauled out of the water for inspection and maintenance. 

We arrived early in part because we left early.  A weather front was moving in and we expected wet weather on the weekend.  We wanted to sail (and arrive) ahead of that front, so we left mid-week.

We also wanted to allow ample time for this passage.  Sailing (or motoring) at 7 knots per hour, we could have made the passage in one day.  However, this was Avalon’s first time out beyond the breakwaters of Auckland in over three months, so we knew there might be some complications as Avalon stretched her sea legs.

After all, a sailboat this size is a sophisticated piece of equipment, requiring the skipper (and crew) to not just be a sailor and navigator, but also a mechanic, an electrician, a plumber, and, nowadays, a computer scientist.   (The amount of communication and navigation equipment on board is astounding – redundant systems via both fixed and mobile devices, all interconnected via on-board WIFI.)

As expected, we encountered a few issues on this voyage relating to a faulty transmission cable and poor quality fuel (probably due to non-use over the months).  We also ran out of propane – which was human error on our part – but I learned that having a microwave onboard is good backup for warm food and beverages!

During our passage, the weather was favorable (sunny or partly cloudy), the sea state was smooth (1-2 foot swells), and the wind was good (10-20 knots).  But, the wind direction was unfavorable.  The wind was coming out of the northwest, which was precisely the direction we wanted to go.  (Remember, with sailing, you have to sail at an angle to wind, not straight into it.)  We motor-sailed quite a bit, allowing us to tighten our angle and head more up-wind.  Occasionally, with brief shifts in wind direction, we were able to unfurl our headsails one at a time and test them out. 

We anchored one night in Bon Accord Harbor on Kawau Island.  The anchor drop was hampered by engine failure (due to the fuel issue noted above), so we were not confident the anchor had properly set.  We set multiple anchor alarms on our GPS devices, but still implemented an anchor-watch that night.  I took the first shift, then Tom and Di generously traded off the late-night shifts without waking me.  In the end, we didn't budge; our 60-pound anchor (and 100 feet of chain) held us in one place, though we did swing around with shifts in tidal current and wind.

It was a beautiful, calm night, with stars filling the clear dark skies, serenaded by birds and other wildlife in the island forest.

The next day, we continued heading north.  A dolphin joined us for a while, playing in our bow wake.  

The approach into Marsden Cove Marina was tricky, with a tight channel, shallow depths, uncertain slip location, and inclement weather.  We followed a catamaran and tug/tow into the channel, and carefully maneuvered into the marina.  We scoped out our slip, rigged our dock lines, and landed gently alongside.

After tidying up the boat, stowing the sails and lines, and hitting the hot showers, we devoured dinner at the marina’s Land and Sea Café and called it a night.

We will wait here through the weekend, and depart Monday up-river to the boatyard in Whangarei.  I may post some details about my weekend activities, but the highlight was walking over 8 kilometers in the dark, along the interstate highway, to the nearest restaurant/bar (other than the overpriced marina cafe) located in neighboring Ruakaka.  The bartender was so impressed she offered me a free beer upon arrival.  Of course I accepted :-)

Filling the fresh water tanks at Pier 21 in Auckland.

Filling the fresh water tanks at Pier 21 in Auckland.

Leaving Auckland in our wake.

Leaving Auckland in our wake.

Passing by volcanic Rangitoto Island.  We considered anchoring here for the night, but decided to continue heading north to stay ahead of the weather approaching from the south.

Passing by volcanic Rangitoto Island.  We considered anchoring here for the night, but decided to continue heading north to stay ahead of the weather approaching from the south.

Sails up!

Sails up!

We anchored for the night in Bon Accord Harbor on Kawau Island.  I took this picture from our stern at sunrise.

We anchored for the night in Bon Accord Harbor on Kawau Island.  I took this picture from our stern at sunrise.

Approaching the mouth of the Hatea River - we will head up river to Marsden, and eventually Whangarei.

Approaching the mouth of the Hatea River - we will head up river to Marsden, and eventually Whangarei.

View from the stern as we navigate the narrow channel toward Marsden Cove Marina.  Look how close the shoreline is!

View from the stern as we navigate the narrow channel toward Marsden Cove Marina.  Look how close the shoreline is!

Docked safely at Marsden Cove Marina.

Docked safely at Marsden Cove Marina.

Goodbye Auckland!

I am leaving Auckland, New Zealand today on 50-foot SV Avalon, headed east to Waiheke Island and then north to Whangarei, where we hope to arrive by Saturday.  This will be my first shakedown sail with the beautiful Deerfoot-designed, cutter-rigged sailing vessel Avalon.

We will have the boat hauled out of the water in Whangarei next week for inspections and maintenance. 

Then we will have another week of preparation before the 1,200-mile passage to Fiji.  We will do more shakedown sails, pick up our remaining crew, and provision the boat with food, water, and fuel.

In late April, we begin watching for a weather window that will allow us safe passage north to Fiji.  The skipper, who has made this passage before, says the first 400 miles can be pretty rough, with big seas and wind. 

I'm excited because the conditions will test me, giving me another data point as to whether I'm cut out to be an ocean-going sailor.

The weather conditions and sea state are not the only tests. Essentially, I will be sharing a floating one-bedroom apartment with four guys in the middle of the ocean for 8-10 days.  So the passage will be a psychological and behavioral test as well as physical test.

I can't wait!  Let the adventure begin! 

We have WIFI on board but it's reserved for specific navigational and safety purposes... Updating Facebook is not one of them. 

I'll respond to emails and update DBT.com again once we have the boat out of the water in Whangarei next week.   

True to DBT purpose, I have lined up a family to stay with in Whangarei.  I will help them in their garden, harvesting and clearing the summer growth.  

Just like in the old corporate days, I like to work hard, stay busy, and keep active.  But these activities I'm doing now are just so much more fun for me....

Goodbye Auckland!  See you upon my return from Fiji!

Afternoon showers yielded a beautiful rainbow over the central business district of Auckland.

Afternoon showers yielded a beautiful rainbow over the central business district of Auckland.

SV Avalon on the morning of departure, needing a couple of hours of set-up before we set sail.

SV Avalon on the morning of departure, needing a couple of hours of set-up before we set sail.

DBT on the morning of departure, needed a couple of coffees before we set-sail.

DBT on the morning of departure, needed a couple of coffees before we set-sail.

No April Fools

I'm pleased to share my story with the readership of Business Insider.  I certainly appreciate that I am in a relatively unique situation, but I hope my story inspires people to pursue their passions, even if on a smaller, less drastic scale than I have chosen.

Published on April 1, the article might seem like a good "April Fools" joke.  But it's not.  It's the real deal.

Click here to read the article. 

Auckland. Avalon. Awesome.

I arrived in Auckland on Sunday, March 27, and the city is already exceeding my expectations.

My hotel is The Sebel Auckland at Viaduct Harbor.  It’s less than a block from the marina, where lots of beautiful boats await their next adventure… including the beautiful 50-foot “Avalon” which is the sailboat we’ll be taking up to Fiji at the end of April.

My hotel room is a suite, with full kitchen and washer/dryer.  Unfortunately I have a view of a parking structure, not the marina. But hey, for $80/night, I’ll take it.  This is way beyond my daily budget, but given that so many of the upcoming days will include free accommodation on Avalon, I figure my average cost per night will come down dramatically.

So I’ll stay here at The Sebel for 4 nights, and then I’ll move to the sailboat and ready myself for the departure north.

I met with Avalon’s skipper (and my former sailing instructor-now-friend), Tom Prior, for lunch on Sunday.  After lunch he took me down to meet Avalon for the first time.  She’s a beauty.  Sleek lines, clean deck, secure cockpit, and spacious cabin.  Many traditional blue-water cruising sailboats are slow, heavy beasts built like a fortress able to withstand the pounding of waves and wind. From what I understand from Tom, Avalon is at the lighter, faster end of the spectrum.  Still strong and sturdy, but much better, faster sailing performance.  We may not be able to outrun a storm, but we can sail with the storm until it subsides.  (Of course, with modern technology and careful forethought in route planning, we hope to avoid storms in the first place.)

Over the last couple of days, I’ve gone down to the boat to help Tom settle in and get the boat clean and ready.  This will continue for several days, in fact weeks.  We’ll bring the boat to northern New Zealand in a few days, where she’ll get hauled out of the water for some inspections and hull treatment.  Then we’ll plan our route, provision the boat, do several shakedown sails, and wait for the weather window to make our passage north, 1,200 miles to Fiji. 

In my downtime, I’ve explored a few of the streets, restaurants, and parks in Auckland.  What a great town!  Streets are clean, people are nice, and food is excellent.   Transportation from the airport by bus was very easy, thanks to the driver who was probably the most friendly, helpful bus driver I’ve ever spoken too.  People on the docks have been very nice, too, already offering tips for our sail north.

I have a couple of friends of friends here that I plan to meet, so I’m looking forward to experiencing a bit more of the local side of Auckland, too.

I’m not immediately rushing out to conquer all the sights and towns of the northern, let alone the southern, island of New Zealand.  I’m in the area for two months, and more importantly, I already know I will be making another trip here in the future…

Emerging from The Sebel hotel, right into the marina.

Emerging from The Sebel hotel, right into the marina.

I've enjoyed walking around the marina, looking at all the big boats, and watching vessel operations such as this.

I've enjoyed walking around the marina, looking at all the big boats, and watching vessel operations such as this.

Sailing vessel "Avalon."  A 50-foot Deerfoot that we'll sail 1,200 north to Fiji. 

Sailing vessel "Avalon."  A 50-foot Deerfoot that we'll sail 1,200 north to Fiji. 

And So It Begins (Again)...

One year.  Well, actually, 372 days.  That’s how long I have, at a minimum, before I am back in my house.  It sounds crazy, doesn’t it?

My first stop is New Zealand, where I will hang out for a month preparing for a 1,200 sailing passage to Fiji with my former sailing instructor.  It will be my first yacht delivery, and first real blue water experience..  It will be a true test as to whether I can turn my sailing passion into a sailing career.

Packing up my house (and my bags) over the last couple of days was a mad dash.   I was constantly running out to REI, West Marine, Best Buy, and Walgreens for last minute items I might need on my trip.  I’m sure I’ve forgotten something, but the good news I’m going to Auckland, not a village on a remote island.  I can buy whatever I forgot, especially if it’s sailing or outdoor gear.

I pride myself on being very clean and organized.  At the beginning, there was logic to what belongings were going into my garage, my backyard shed, or my storage unit.  And within each of those spaces, where exactly would the item go?  How would it be wrapped?  Well, in the last few hours this afternoon, I was just cramming stuff anywhere it would fit.   It was messy, but it’s done.

I did a final walkthrough video of my house.  A few big pieces of furniture remain – too big for my storage options.  But all personal effects are gone.  It was kind of sad to walk through the empty rooms and hallways.  I had spent so much time making the house comfortable (for me), in particular hanging lots of pictures of my travels. 

And then came the final moment of walking out and locking the door behind me.  It was a weird feeling.  Previously, I was renting my house to a friend, and only for 6 months.  It felt more like he was housesitting for me, or just living as a guest.   It didn’t seem as real as this time.   Now it’s the real deal.  I’m renting to a stranger (but he and his family are super nice), and it’s for a year with an option to go month-to-month after that.

So, this is it.  I’m a homeless wanderer with a blank slate, looking forward to an exciting and adventurous year!  Now, I have to go catch my flight!  

Stay tuned!   

 

Rugs rolled up...

Rugs rolled up...

Cars covered...

Cars covered...

Storage unit filled and locked.  But it gets me thinking... If I don't need all this stuff for a year, will I *ever* need it??

Storage unit filled and locked.  But it gets me thinking... If I don't need all this stuff for a year, will I *ever* need it??

Leaving my house for a year!

Leaving my house for a year!

Writing my first update from the Air New Zealand business lounge at SFO.

Writing my first update from the Air New Zealand business lounge at SFO.

Enjoying a glass of bubbly before takeoff.

Enjoying a glass of bubbly before takeoff.

Anchors Aweigh!

Many of you have asked me, "What's next?"  Well, having just selected the people who will rent my house for the next year, I'm ready to announce my plans.  I will take another year off work to focus on sailing -- acquiring sea miles and building my sailing network.  

So far, I have booked two big sailing adventures for 2016:

First, I will be joining two of my sailing instructors on a 1,200-mile sailing passage from New Zealand to Fiji.  I fly to New Zealand in late March, and will spend a few weeks on preparation and practice.  The actual passage will be sometime in late April or early May, depending on favorable weather and sea conditions.  Obviously, we want to avoid storms like the devastating Winston cyclone. 

This will be my first major ocean voyage, so I am very excited.  It will be a thrilling 10 or 12 days, but more importantly, it will provide me with that “first job experience" that is so critical in starting a new career.  To be hired as skipper or crew on a yacht, you need sea miles.  But to get sea miles, you need to be skipper or crew.  It’s a chicken-and-egg dilemma.  For that reason, I’m incredibly grateful to my skipper for trusting me and inviting me on this passage.  I hope this experience will have a snowball effect and lead to even more opportunities as my sea miles increase.

Second, in September I will head to Croatia where I have chartered a 42-foot sailboat.  I will skipper this boat, as part of a larger 12- or 15-boat “flotilla” from the Olympic Circle Sailing Club.  For two weeks, we will make our way from Split to Dubrovnik, cruising around the various islands in the Adriatic Sea, stopping at marinas or coves to explore small towns, beaches, and the countryside.

In between these two big trips, I hope to find other sailing opportunities so that I can continue to build my experience and sea miles.  I am currently in discussions with a few skippers in the Caribbean, Mediterranean, and Andaman Seas.  Unfortunately due to timing, I had to turn down an offer to sail from San Francisco to Seattle in March.  Regardless, these discussions give me confidence, and in fact prove, that skippers are starting to notice me. 

In the meantime, I'm doing a lot of work behind the scenes.  Sailing is complicated.  There is a lot that goes into it, and a lot to prepare for.  Sailing is physical, so I have been developing a more aggressive workout routine.  Sailing is intellectual, so I have been studying navigation and chart-plotting.  Sailing is environmental, so I have been learning about weather fronts, air pressure, and wind patterns.  Sailing is expensive, so I have been buying lots of stuff which will keep me safe, warm, and dry.  :-)   

Lastly, like any good sailor, I have a Plan B – volunteering.  I am still monitoring www.helpx.net for interesting opportunities to volunteer in exchange for accommodations.  Right now, I'm talking to my friends in Chile about returning there in December or January.  That would be awesome.

I am excited for what the future holds, even though I can’t quite see it clearly yet.  I am charting a new course, and couldn’t be happier.  


To prepare for a year of sailing, I have been doing a lot of studying:  navigation, chart-plotting, weather patterns, knots, etc.

We will be sailing at night, so I have also been studying light configurations for all kinds of vessels:

 

I've made a few purchases with safety in mind.  Durable, warm, sticky-soled sailing boots to keep me on board, and a personal locator beacon with satellite link just in case those fancy boots don't work.

And, Tom P., in case you're reading this, I've been practicing cooking hard-boiled eggs....  :-)

Home Sweet Home

After 6 months of living out of a backpack and the back of my car, I walked into my house on February 29 - the evening before my birthday - and plopped down on my couch.  Ahhhh, I missed this place!  

Even though most of my belongings were in storage, there was just enough to make me feel at home - my travel photos on the wall, my houseplants in the kitchen, and my couch and TV in the living room.  

For a few minutes I just sat on the couch, listened to the silence, and enjoyed a few deep breaths.  It has been a whirlwind of six months:  from Chile to Germany to Thailand.  I have met so many people, and have helped so many people.  I have overcome fears and challenges, and have proved I can forge a new life for myself however unique and untraditional it may be.

I’ve already made commitments for two exciting adventures in 2016, which I will share in my next post.  The excitement I feel about the future overrides the comfort and coziness I feel about being home.  

However, for now, I’m focused on continuing my healing – which will be easier now that I am home and can set up a routine for eating and exercise.  I am seeing a physical therapist for my knee injury, which is getting better every.  I am tracking my nutrition and caloric intake in order to gradually regain the 10 pounds I lost in Thailand.

And while I’m fixing myself, Nikon has fixed my DSLR camera.

Stay tuned for my 2016 plans...

My comfy place.

My comfy place.

Home sweet home.

Home sweet home.

House-Sitting, Not Jet-Setting

Homeless until March 1, I've been staying at friends' houses for the month of February, including a house-sitting stint which gave me some much-needed quiet time to recuperate and reflect.

For a guy living a life of leisure, I’ve been pretty stressed out these last couple of weeks – preoccupied by healing my knee, re-renting my house, fixing my camera, and filing my income taxes – all while trying to figure out where to sleep and shower each night.  In addition, a couple of companies have approached me with interesting “real job” opportunities, which makes me second-guess my decision to pursue my passion vs. return to the rat race.

But, I’m keeping a long-term perspective on things.  I constantly remind myself that I’m not taking a vacation to be happy for a year, but rather I’m blazing a new trail to be happy for the rest of my life.  To paraphrase a colleague of mine, I’m not building a path to earn a million dollars, but a path to feel like a million dollars.

As I mentioned in my last post, that new path is sailing.  I don’t yet know where it will lead but I know it’s the path I want to explore. 

The year 2015 was a year of organization and transition, to prepare myself for a new lifestyle:  getting my banking and bill-paying online; converting my house into a rental property; building a financial plan; finishing critical sailing certifications; and setting up a website to share my experience.  By late 2015, as you’ve read, I tested the waters at this low-budget, highly-mobile lifestyle – grounded in the principle that by volunteering and/or sailing, I can significantly reduce my day-to-day living expenses, while also helping others accomplish their goals of providing for their family, running a small business, sailing from Point A to Point B, etc.  It wasn’t an easy year, and it certainly wasn't as glamorous as it sounds, but it proved the concept.

Now, in 2016, it’s all about sailing – getting on-the-water experience, building my social network within the sailing community, and earning further certifications as required.  I’m still very interested in general volunteering as well, but sailing will be the priority.

I'm thankful to my friends who have opened their homes to me this month. I'm looking forward to a couple of weeks in my own house, as I prepare mentally and physically for another year on the road.  Er, water.  

Anchor's aweigh!

Rough Return

I’ve been back in the San Francisco Bay area for a few days now, but I have to admit, I still feel like a mess.

My right knee is bruised, swollen, and really hurting me, thanks to a motorbike accident on my last weekend in Thailand.  (See video I posted. Yes, Mom and Dad, I'm ok.) 

Ko Jum has one main paved road running north and south, but a dirt road skirts around to the west along the beaches and cliffs.  The dirt road is tough to navigate by scooter.  In two months, I had tried twice and turned around twice because of ruts, rocks, and mud.

On my last weekend, during my final ‘goodbye’ ride around the island, I decided to try the dirt road a third time.  I was determined to make it all the way.  About halfway through the trip (the uphill part), I noticed the rear brake on the motorbike was not working. That left me only the front brake to get down the hill.  Any motorcycle rider or bicyclist will know the danger in this. I took the downhill really slow.  Inevitably, the front wheel slipped out from under me, and down I went.  I banged my knee on the engine (or maybe a rock?). The next day, with pain, swelling, and stiffness, I visited the island hospital, where the nurse barely even looked at my knee.  She had just stitched up some other tourists who had had a much worse accident than I.  She gave me some ibuprofen and elastic wrap. (I have since visited my doctor at Stanford who confirmed that it is nothing serious just a severe bruise.)

In addition to my sore knee, the transition home has not been kind to me.  I've caught a cold, probably due to the severe change in climate (from 90 degrees in Thailand to 50 degrees in San Francisco); and I'm suffering from more jet lag than usual.  I guess my body and biological clock had really adjusted to Thailand time over the three months.  Since being home in San Francisco, I’ve been falling asleep at 9pm and waking up at 3am.

I've also lost about 10 pounds of weight that I didn't need to lose in the first place.  (However, if any of you need to diet, I highly recommend small, poor island living.)   The simple ratio of calorie intake vs. calorie expenditure was out of whack during my stay, kind of like those survival reality TV shows... Survivor, Naked and Afraid, etc.  I did shave and shower though.

I know all of these physical conditions will improve with time, so I’m not too worried.  I did go sailing the other day, which probably wasn’t the right thing to do to get well… But we always eat well on the boat, so hopefully it helped me in terms of calorie count.

On top of the physical adjustments going on, I’m also experiencing a bit of culture shock. Coming back to Silicon Valley, USA, after living on a rural island for three months, is quite a change. 

First, I have to agree with what my friend Melanie described when she visited the United States after an extended time in Costa Rica. The variety of choices we have here is overwhelming if you aren’t used to it.  Grocery aisles seem endless.  Houses seem huge.  Cars seem countless. And everyone seems to be in a hurry. 

Second, I have become accustomed to lightweight and simple living.  Not quite minimalist, but close.  My travel gear fit into a 46-liter backpack and 20-liter daypack, although the latter was mainly my DSLR camera, lenses, and computer.   I’ve come back to a 10 foot x 20 foot storage unit full of my “stuff.” Why am I keeping my college intramural champion t-shirt?  Why am I saving my class work and textbooks? Why do I have two snowboards and four pairs of rollerblades?  Why do I own 12 pairs of jeans?  While I am not ready to sell everything I own, I am ready to downsize and simplify.

Third, it's hard being here in Silicon Valley jobless and homeless.  I'm reminded constantly how expensive this part of the country is.  I've been tracking my spending habits before traveling, while traveling, and now after traveling.  As you might expect,  the difference is dramatic. Fortunately I know an excellent financial planner (i.e., me), and I have a budget I manage to.  (For anyone thinking of doing what I'm doing, I urge you to have your own financial plan and budget.) Thankfully, I have great friends who are sharing their homes with me, which helps me contain my costs tremendously while I'm back in town.  Regardless, I can't wait to get back on the road...

And that brings me to the question a lot of people have asked me. "What next?"  

I'm not ready to divulge any specifics yet.  But here's an obvious hint:

I remember my last day on Ko Jum.  I was sitting in the Tiki Hut just off the beach, with a strong, warm breeze blowing from behind me.  Maybe the strongest wind we'd had during my visit.  I sat there, staring out across the sand and sea, wondering myself what in the world I was going to do next.  Jobless and homeless, I felt like I could do anything.  And yet I also felt a tinge of fear.  Maybe I should just go back to a "normal life."  At that moment, a sailboat appeared on the horizon.  I watched in fascination as it made its way across the horizon, past Ko Phi Phi, down toward Ko Lanta, almost racing against the setting sun. I knew what I was missing, and where I wanted to be.  

Stay tuned for 2016!  The adventure continues... 

Leaving Ko Jum

I can’t believe the time has come for me to leave Ko Jum.  While I’m sad to leave, I’m happy that I stumbled upon this island in the first place.  It was an incredible three months.

Thanks to my host Ben, and the extended family who helps manage Uza Beach Residence.  Thanks to all the other Helpers who joined me at some point along this journey, as well as the guests and tourists whom I met along the way.  Thanks to www.helpx.net for providing the vehicle by which this all took place.

Most of all, thanks to the people of Ko Jum who welcomed me to their island community. 

I will most certainly be back to visit my new friends on the island, as well as see how things progress at the new-and-improved Uza Beach Residence.

The long journey home to San Francisco will give me some time to reflect on my Ko Jum experience.  Maybe I’ll post those reflections, or maybe I’ll keep them to myself.  Regardless, I’ve put together another video that presents many highlights of the island, and in particular my favorite places.  Check it out here.

Combined with my videos from Uza Beach Residence, from motor-biking, and from boating, this final “Secrets of Ko Jum” video should give you a sense of my last three months.   Look for all of these videos on the Videos/Compilations page on this site, or you can find them on YouTube (@dannyboytravels channel).

My stay on Ko Jum is over, but the DBT adventure continues.  I already have several options for future destinations and activities.  So stay tuned!

I spent part of my last day in the Tiki Hut just gazing out into the Andaman Sea.  There was a decent wind and I noticed a sailboat gliding along the horizon.  I captured the moment in my head and said (and perhaps committed to myself), "I want to be THAT guy." 

Right now, California here I come….

I nailed a "San Francisco" sign on the signpost on Coral Bay, at the north end of the island.

I nailed a "San Francisco" sign on the signpost on Coral Bay, at the north end of the island.

My last sunset on Koh Jum didn't disappoint me.  Beautiful as always.

My last sunset on Koh Jum didn't disappoint me.  Beautiful as always.

Basking in the sunset glow at my local beach bar.

Basking in the sunset glow at my local beach bar.

I sat in the Tiki Hut on Uza Beach for an hour just soaking in the view and reflecting on my experience over the last 3 months.

I sat in the Tiki Hut on Uza Beach for an hour just soaking in the view and reflecting on my experience over the last 3 months.

We made some great enhancements to the property, but the beach says it all...

We made some great enhancements to the property, but the beach says it all...

Winding Down

The last week has been pretty slow.  I’m not sure why.  Here are a few guesses:

First, the “high season” on Ko Jum seems to have already peaked.  Yes, we expect to see a bump for Chinese New Year in early February, but the island has definitely slowed down (as if it could get any more relaxed in the first place).  Not sure if it’s the global economy or terrorism or just seasonality.  I’ve learned that Ko Jum has a lot of “repeat tourists” who visit on an annual basis over the winter Holidays.  The island may not draw as many new tourists consistently because the beaches aren’t the nicest or cleanest in Thailand; there is basically no nightlife; and services are minimal (e.g., no ATMs).  But there is something about the people and quiet life here that is pretty fantastic once you experience it.

Second, with the major renovation work completed at Uza Beach Residence, the work requirements have been reduced to basic day-to-day operations of cleaning, cooking, serving, etc.  Several Helpers have left.  Our lunchtime table for 11 is now reduced to about 4.

Third, it’s been crazy hot with little wind and no rain – a combination that just sucks the energy out of all of us here. 

Fourth, I’ve realized that I only have another week here, which I’m bummed about.  So I’ve been trying to go slow, relax, and just enjoy the time and people here.    

Despite the slowdown (or maybe because of the slowdown), I did take a couple of excursions to the neighboring islands of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi.  Thanks to my friend at Jungle Hill Bungalows who let me ride along in his long-tail boat as he ferried passengers to and from the islands.  In Koh Lanta, I stayed overnight and rented a motorbike for half a day so that I could explore more of that island.  I have to say, it wasn’t my favorite. I was happy to return to the peace and quiet on Koh Jum.

The slowdown has given me time to think and reflect.  Because I leave Thailand in a week, I have been thinking about what to do next.   With a broken camera, I’ve cancelled my planned trips to Myanmar and Cambodia.  (I even had to turn down a great volunteer opportunity in Cambodia.)  I’m returning to California at the end of January to get the camera fixed, pay taxes, and re-rent my house. 

I have a couple of local volunteering opportunities that I may pursue while in the Bay Area, but then I hope to leave again in March, at which point I have a few sailing opportunities that sound very exciting.

I’ll be sad to leave Ko Jum and its kind people, but I know I’ll be back.  In fact, I’m already dreaming of seeing Ko Jum off the port bow as I sail down from Phuket…

I'm going to miss this view on my way home from morning coffee...

I'm going to miss this view on my way home from morning coffee...

Life Is Short, So Live It

The cutest cat ever has been hanging around Uza Beach for the last month or so.  We sort of adopted her.  She is super friendly and loves to sit on my lap.  

Last week, we think she had a miscarriage (even though a lot of us couldn't even tell she was pregnant.)  Several days later, she was still having some kind of contractions, with difficulty breathing.  She couldn't lay down because of discomfort.  She wouldn't eat or let us handle her.  It was a heart-wrenching scene.  On this small island, there was nothing we could really do.

Sadly, the cat has died.  At least her suffering is over, though.

We found the carcass this morning, just up from the beach.  It looked like she literally collapsed in death while still in the sitting-on-hind-legs position.  Poor thing.  

I dug a grave at the side of the yard where she used to roam among the tall grass.  We placed her at the bottom of the grave, and covered her with a layer of sand.  I remembered how she loved the sand, especially pooping in our new walkway!  It seemed only fitting to bury her with some of that sand.  We then covered her with a layer of dirt, and placed a few rocks on top to mark the gravesite.

Digging the grave was quite emotional for me. I was overwhelmed by pity that this cat suffered so much, and by helplessness that we couldn’t do anything to save it despite our best efforts. 

But on a grander scale, I started thinking about mortality in general.

The cat’s death, as brutal as it was, perhaps had some bit of purpose to it.  To remind us that, like it or not, life ends, sometimes unexpectedly and unforgivingly. 

You don’t get a second chance.  It doesn’t matter what you have or don’t have, what you do or don’t do, or, in the cat’s case, how cute you are.

So live your life, on your terms.  Be happy.  Now.  (And of course, the financial planner in me would add, "Have a financial plan or budget.")  

I like to travel.  I like to sail.  So that's what I'm doing.  

Rest in peace, “Cat.”  I’m sorry we couldn’t help you, or even give you a name.

The cat's gravesite, in the center of the picture, marked by a pile of rocks.  She's nestled in the tall grass that she used to play in, and just a few meters away from the sand walkway that she loved to poop in.  RIP.

The cat's gravesite, in the center of the picture, marked by a pile of rocks.  She's nestled in the tall grass that she used to play in, and just a few meters away from the sand walkway that she loved to poop in.  RIP.

The One that Got Away

As I’ve mentioned before, one of my favorite activities here on Koh Jum has been fishing for squid.  We take kayaks out at sunrise or sunset, equipped with a “squid lure” on the end of a fishing line wrapped around a plastic water bottle, and a plastic bucket to hold the squid should we be lucky enough to catch one.  For whatever reason, we don’t even need bait; the squid (supposedly) just go after the colorful plastic squid lure, and their tentacles get caught on the hooks.  

That's the theory, at least.  I've been trying to prove it for 2 months.  (There are plenty of squid dishes in restaurants on the island, so certainly someone is catching squid.)

I’ve had lots of nibbles, and one or two visual sightings of the bugger slipping off the hook (which doesn’t have the normal barb).

It’s sort of a game.  I know I’m smarter than the squid.  And I know I will catch one eventually.  But I have been very patient because the actual process of squid fishing is so enjoyable:  drifting in the kayak about 50 meters off shore, basking in the sunset glow, and admiring the light as it reflects off the wet rocks, palm trees, and jungle bungalows on the shore.  I drag the lure behind me, occasionally bringing it in and then casting it out again. 

So while the squid is playing hard to get, I am also not really giving it my all.  I could try a different sized lure, I could try baiting the lure, I could spend more time out there. 

But, I’m happy to report – the game is over.  Sort of.

I finally caught one!  He was firmly on the line as I hauled him up from the depths below, and scooped him into the bucket.  I paused for a moment when he was at the surface – just like I was taught – to let him squirt his ink. 

Once in the bucket, and secure in the boat, I unhooked his tentacles from the hook. He squirted his black ink again.   And then again.  Soon, the small bucket holding him was filled with inky sea water.  As he squirted more, the ink would spray into the kayak and on me.  This was getting messy.  So I headed to shore rather than try to catch another one. 

Cloaked in darkness except for that which was illuminated by the narrow high-beam of my headlamp, I carefully navigated around the rocks and onto the shore. 

The squid was small – probably not worth killing, cooking, and eating – but I did want to show my friends that I finally caught one, and then we would let him go.   But the little guy was immersed in his own ink.  He was probably suffocating / drowning.  So, being the nice guy that I am, I decided to replace some of that inky water with fresh sea water.

So I tipped the bucket just a bit to drain out some water and then…oh noooo…the crazy squid shooted out of the bucket and back into the ocean! 

Fortunately I have a Go Pro clip of me with the squid, but between the night air and the black ink water, it’s too dark to see anything.  At least I know I caught one, but he escaped as I was trying to avoid having him drown in his own black ink.  Bummer.  So much for being a nice guy.  Next time I'm going to break his neck - if he has one.

The drama of squid fishing intrigued fellow-Helper Gaston, so he and I went out the next night.  We didn’t catch any squid but we noticed a lot of small fish liked our headlamps.  We could lure the fish to the kayak with the light.  Just for fun, Gaston tried to catch one by scooping it up in the bucket. After a few tries, he succeeded!!  He stowed the little guy in the cargo net on the kayak, and tried again.  Success.  I even tried to stun the fish first by smacking them with my paddle.  (Not sure how well that worked or whether Gaston even needed my assistance.)

That night, we caught 6 fish while ‘bucket fishing’.  We took them to a nearby restaurant, where our favorite chef Rosa cooked them for us. 

The next night, we went out again.  We caught 12!  Well, Gaston caught 12.  I failed miserably.

By the third night, we became more serious.  We went to the store to buy mesh netting.  Gaston and Maria made two nets with leftover metal rods and the new netting.  We also found a third net in the storage unit.

The three of us went out again that night. We tried for squid again first, but no luck.  Then we tried fishing with the nets.  Easy!  I caught 18.  Gaston caught 19.  I felt a little guilty because it was SO easy.  And I felt guilty that we just put the fish in the kayak’s cargo net and let them suffocate.  That probably wasn’t the most humane way to do it, but I didn’t have anything to kill them quickly with.  (Not sure if fish have necks either?)

That night we cooked the fish at Uza Beach Restaurant and had quite a feast!

Despite the success at bucket (or net) fishing, I still want to have grilled squid before I leave…and I’m running out of days.  Only 2 weeks to go!

P.S.  Happy 75th birthday, Dad!!

A selfie just before the epic moment of catching my first squid!

A selfie just before the epic moment of catching my first squid!

I swear there is a squid in the bucket hiding under all that black ink.  Unfortunately he got away when I carelessly tried to replace some of the ink with fresh seawater.  Nice Guy 0, Squid 1.  

I swear there is a squid in the bucket hiding under all that black ink.  Unfortunately he got away when I carelessly tried to replace some of the ink with fresh seawater.  Nice Guy 0, Squid 1.  

Giving up on squid fishing and taking our "bucket fishing" to the next level with homemade nets, we embarked at sunset on two kayaks and caught 37 fish.

Giving up on squid fishing and taking our "bucket fishing" to the next level with homemade nets, we embarked at sunset on two kayaks and caught 37 fish.

We had a small feast of 37 small fish.

We had a small feast of 37 small fish.

This is what the pros catch.

This is what the pros catch.

Another skill I'm working on:  Slack Line.  I'm about at good at Slack Line as I am at squid fishing.

Another skill I'm working on:  Slack Line.  I'm about at good at Slack Line as I am at squid fishing.

Spreadsheets in Paradise

After 2 months of renovations, Uza Beach Residence is looking fantastic and operations are in full swing.  I’m happy to report that we were fully booked over the New Year, and it looks like that trend will continue during the high season.  This is quite an accomplishment given the condition of the property when I arrived in early mid-November. 

Most, if not all, of the existing projects are in maintenance mode at this point.  Here is what's going on:

Project “Walk This Way” only requires a quick daily routine of raking leaves off the sand walkway and straightening the coral border.  We haven’t yet been able to train the cat NOT to poop on the walkway.  She (or he?) is enjoying the largest litter box in the world.

Project “Orange Crush” trickles on as we find things that we forgot to paint.  For example, we decided to paint some of the concrete posts along the road in the same bright orange as the main building.

Project “What’s Your Sign” also continues on a slow burn, thanks to our creative sign-painting crew.   They’ve recently created a bunch of new smaller signs that highlight guest services (e.g., kayak rental, motorbike rental, and island tours), cocktail list, and recycling bins.  They created a big wooden “Uza Beach Restaurant” sign that we hung from the large tree on the beach, again fighting the nasty red ants and balancing on the wobbly ladder. The sign is very visible and will hopefully increase traffic to our restaurant.  

As a spin off of “What’s Your Sign”, we have also re-written the menus, and built podiums out of driftwood to place the menus on.  The podiums are located at the street and beach entrances to the restaurant, so passers-by can review menu items and prices.  Now we just need to translate the menus to Thai so the cook knows what to prepare!

Project “Sunset Suds” is alive and well.  In fact, the BAR IS OPEN!  We have a night shift from 6:00pm to 10:00pjm.   We are still working out the day shift, which arguably might be more important.

Project “Cuckoo for Coconuts” has not seen a lot of action – other than making some matching lamps for the menu-podiums.  These aren’t done yet.

The majority of our time recently has been spent helping Ben manage the day-to-day operations of the resort.  I’m calling this ongoing project, “Squeaky Clean.”

We have been cleaning the bungalows and villa apartments, cleaning the public areas, emptying garbage, and setting-up and breaking-down the restaurant each day.  It’s not glamorous work, but it’s a critical part of running a resort.  If you read reviews of hotels, “cleanliness” is very frequently mentioned.  We want to excel here.

Speaking of excel, I have created some Microsoft Excel spreadsheets to help us manage the day-to-day.  (Those of you who know me from a work environment will not be surprised by this bit of news.)

First, I’ve created a spreadsheet to track room cleaning and room set-up.  For every room, we log who’s cleaning the room, and what “clean” means.  We also then log who’s setting up the room, and what “set-up / ready” means. I donated two “cleaning kits” to Uza Beach Residence, complete with buckets, scrub brushes, cleaning agents, and rubber gloves in order to elevate the standard of “clean” and “ready”.  

Second, I created a spreadsheet to manage bookings. We now know who the guest is, where they booked from, what kind of room they want, how long they are staying, and any other special notes about the reservation.  The spreadsheet is basic, but it is a vast improvement over the pen/paper process used previously.  Fitting the reservations into the bungalows and villas with the right lengths of stay and room/bed requirements, with no overlap or conflict, is like a working on a jigsaw puzzle.  Using a digital solution like Excel is fast and convenient if changes need to be made.  We can even download reservation information from Booking.com and Agoda.com!

Third, I’m working on a financial model for the property so we can better manage revenue, costs, and profits, as well as re-investment in supplies and inventory. I’m not sure Ben is ready for this, but we’ll see.  It’s been a fun exercise for me, at least. 

Aside from the Uza Beach projects, I had a little project of my own to work on.  I had to renew my Thailand visa.  I was approaching my 60-day limit!

So I took a few days off volunteering to head up to Krabi Town to renew my visa.  I decided this was easier (though more expensive) than doing a “visa run” to the border of Thailand and Malaysia.  I took a boat, then bus, then taxi to the Immigration Office where I paid 1,900 baht to stay another 30 days in Thailand. I also rendezvoused with a friend of mine in Krabi, and he accompanied me back to Ko Jum for a day.  It was fun to show a friend my secret island home.

With Uza Beach projects under control and my new visa in hand, I was ready to take a break and celebrate.  What better way than New Year’s Eve!

As the year drew to a close, we hosted another big beach barbecue on December 31 to bid farewell to 2015.  We had our normal menu of chicken sandwiches and grilled potatoes.  Two of our French Helpers made mayonnaise from scratch.  That was pretty impressive, and tasty.  At midnight, we lit fireworks on the beach – not sparklers but the real ones that launch into the air and explode. We could also see fireworks going off on Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta islands.

The year 2015 was a year of change for me – perhaps the biggest in my life.  Bigger than leaving Electronic Arts after 13 years.  Bigger than buying a house in San Carlos.  I’m grateful for the “wake-up call” to alter course and head to a more meaningful and impactful destination.  I won’t get there in 2016.  My journey is just beginning, I hope.

Happy New Year! 

The monkeys continue to run around the property watching us clean... Frequently we are cleaning up after THEM.

The monkeys continue to run around the property watching us clean... Frequently we are cleaning up after THEM.

The hanging sign highlighting our restaurant.  This picture was taken from the beach.

The hanging sign highlighting our restaurant.  This picture was taken from the beach.

This young man helped us pick out our chicken for the New Year's Eve barbecue.  

This young man helped us pick out our chicken for the New Year's Eve barbecue.  

New Year's Eve on the beach, complete with sunset and barbecue.

New Year's Eve on the beach, complete with sunset and barbecue.

The grill fully loaded!

The grill fully loaded!

Arriving at Laem Kruat on my way to Krabi.

Arriving at Laem Kruat on my way to Krabi.

My friend David who swung by for a visit.

My friend David who swung by for a visit.

Happy New Year from Koh Jum, Thailand!

Happy New Year from Koh Jum, Thailand!

Merry Christmas (Thailand/Argentina Style)

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so I’m going to save time and just post a few pictures that visually describe my wonderful Christmas celebration here on the island of Ko Jum, Thailand.  We had a huge beach barbecue on Christmas Eve.  Not a gas-grill barbecue.  This was a barbecue over open fire, right on the sand, with a grill that we actually made!  (Well, we designed the grill, bought and cut the iron rods, and then paid a welder to assemble the grill, which measured about 1.1 meters by 0.6 meters!)  

I’m so thankful for the opportunity to take time off from “normal life” to explore the world, help those who need help, and meet new friends.  I miss family and friends (and, yes, at times certain conveniences of my life in California). 

That said, my Christmas here was pretty awesome.  Thanks to Uza Beach Residence and the Helpers, especially my new Argentinian friends who taught me a thing or two about real barbecuing!  (And slack-line!)

Our Christmas Eve celebration was so awesome that we basically repeated it two days later on December 26! 

Uza Beach Residence ready for a beach barbecue and Christmas Eve celebration!

Uza Beach Residence ready for a beach barbecue and Christmas Eve celebration!

Bar is OPEN!

Bar is OPEN!

Sun co-operated with a fantastic sunset.

Sun co-operated with a fantastic sunset.

And the moon co-operated too!

And the moon co-operated too!

I had to include a shot of Gaston, our head chef / barbecue master.  He also performs on the slack-line.  Pretty cool.  

I had to include a shot of Gaston, our head chef / barbecue master.  He also performs on the slack-line.  Pretty cool.  

The large home-made grill, over the coals and packed with food!

The large home-made grill, over the coals and packed with food!

 

 

 

 

Snakes, Monkeys, Fish .. Still No Squid

Project work continues at Uza. The place is really looking good.  For this update, I thought I'd share a bit more about other aspect of living here on the less touristy, less developed island of Ko Jum.

At the beginning of last week, I switched rooms at Uza.  I moved out of my air-conditioned, heated-water villa, and moved into one of the bungalows.  I did this for two reasons.  First, I would be closer to the rest of the Helpers who are in adjacent bungalows.   Second, I wanted to test myself with a bit more rugged “jungle living.”  

Well, I guess I got what I asked for.  Only one day after my move, as I was walking up short stairway to my bungalow door, I noticed some snakeskin hanging from the bottom of the bungalow.  I had seen snakeskin before under other bungalows and I knew there were snakes around, so I wasn’t really alarmed.  But then, as I proceeded up the stairs, I glanced up to the eighth step, and there she was – a green snake with black stripes!  (I later tried to identify online, and I think it was a “mildly venomous” golden tree snake.)

I froze in my steps as she lay there staring at me.  I backed away and grabbed a 10-foot piece of 20mm plastic pipe that was lying nearby.  I used that to gently push her off the step.  She snapped a few times at the pipe.  It was like something out of Wild Kingdom or Crocodile Hunter.  (Unfortunately, my GoPro was up in the bungalow and NO WAY was I going to try to get by the snake.)

After pushing her off the step and watching her fall into the bushes, I then retreated to the Uza Beach Restaurant for about half a day to let the snake settle down (and maybe slither away).  I’m sure she was not happy that I interrupted her nap in the morning sun.  Having a snake in the bushes is bad enough.  I imagine having an angry snake in the bushes is even worse.

So far, I haven’t seen the snake again – but every time I go up and down those steps, I pause for a minute and check each step carefully. 

In other wildlife news, we also saw a snake in the grass outside the restaurant the other day.  Actually, it was the local cat (we have a small cat that has been hanging around Uza for a couple of weeks) that was trying to hunt the snake.  It was pretty fun to watch the cat stalk the snake, pounce on it, and then sometimes jerk back as the snake fought back.  The little black snake got away, and the cat continued foraging for food elsewhere.  Now I am also walking a bit more carefully around that part of the property.  

We also continue to see the pack of monkeys hanging around the various parts of the property.  They of course like the Eucalyptus trees, but they also seem to enjoy the Tiki bar and Tiki hut.  One even entered a Helper's bungalow!  I'm keeping my door shut from now on!  (The Helper had been in the shower, but left the sliding glass door to the bungalow open.  The monkey came in, poked around, and was sitting on the floor when the Helper came out of the bathroom!)

In boating news, I don’t have any update on sailing, but I did embark on a different kind of nautical adventure.  There is a small island just off the southern tip of Ko Jum. Rumor had it that a single monkey lived on the otherwise uninhabited island.  I wanted to explore this island and yes maybe get a glimpse of the monkey.  Max and Noe (other Helpers) joined me.  We borrowed Uza Beach’s kayaks and paddled 1 hour to “Lion island,” all the while wondering why it wasn’t called “Monkey Island.”  

We arrived at the island at low tide, so we had to carefully land the kayaks on the beach, avoiding the exposed rocks and coral.  But that was the most exciting part of the day.  We didn’t see the monkey, despite our best monkey calls.

The highlight of the week was accompanying “Oh” (a local bartender) as he visited his fish farm on the other side of Ko Jum.  Max and Noe also joined us.

The four of us borrowed a motorbike with sidecar and went down to the mangroves where Oh keeps his long-tail boat.  The tide was very low, though, and the boat was too heavy for us to lift into the water.  So we took Oh’s second boat, a rowboat which was barely big enough for the four of us.  We still had to carry it a few hundred meters, through a muddy mangrove, to set it in the water. During the walk, I cringed with every step not knowing exactly what I was going to step on.  When we finally got the boat in the water, Oh sat on the bow and paddled us backward to the fish farm which was a few hundred meters offshore. 

The farm was basically a checkerboard structure with 1x4 planks and/or bamboo poles lashed together with large styra-foam blocks providing the buoyancy.  There were 12 “squares” in which nets hung down into the water, creating “tanks” for the variety of fish that Oh was growing.  There was also a 13th tank off to the side holding a grouper. 

The walkways between each tank varied in width – from 4 inches to maybe a foot.  We gingerly (and me nervously) walked around as Oh explained the different tanks and fish, and a bit of history about the farm.  He had to rebuild it from scratch after the tsunami.  His dream is to build 4 floating bungalows for tourists around the farm.

After giving us a tour of the floating fish farm, he then gave us fishing rods and said he would be back in twenty minutes with beer.  He told us just to relax, fish, and enjoy the surroundings. (But not fish for the fish that he was farming, of course.)   We used the squid lure to try for more squid – but no luck. Oh returned in 20 minutes with cold beers for all of us, which was almost as good as fresh squid.

Oh showed us how to throw the net out to catch fish, which he would use as food for his farmed fish.  He caught many small fish, which we pulled from the net and then dropped into the various tanks holding much larger fish.   We did this until sunset, relishing the unique experience. 

Before we left, Oh put some bait on a hook, dropped it into one of the tanks, and within seconds he caught one of his own fish.  He gave it to us as an edible souvenir.  We cooked it for dinner that night.  Ah, if only fishing was always this easy!

As the sun set, we cleaned up, piled into the little row boat, and rowed ashore.  Fortunately, the tide was much higher, so we didn’t have to carry the boat through the mangroves.  We actually floated. 

Apparently when Oh went to get beer, he switched motorbikes.  We stared with mixed reactions at the normal 2-wheeled motorbike with no sidecar.  He didn’t bring back the one with sidecar. We decided to try to fit 4 grown men on one motorbike.  It was snug, but we did it – and we have a GoPro video to prove it!

Now, with Christmas around the corner, our attention is focused on a Christmas Eve barbecue and a New Years Eve party.  I've also picked up a new hobby besides squid-hunting:  walking on the slack-line.  I'm about as good at slack-line as I am at squid hunting.   

Stay tuned!

I moved into one of these bungalows.  Built on stilts, with wood plank flooring and no hot water, these bungalows provide a bit more rustic living. This picture was taking at dusk, with the moon rising in the east.

I moved into one of these bungalows.  Built on stilts, with wood plank flooring and no hot water, these bungalows provide a bit more rustic living. This picture was taking at dusk, with the moon rising in the east.

Monkey checking out the new Tiki bar.  Let me guess, "Banana Daiquiri?"

Monkey checking out the new Tiki bar.  Let me guess, "Banana Daiquiri?"

One of the monkeys decides to try bartending.

One of the monkeys decides to try bartending.

The view from "Lion Island" looking back at Ko Jum with its single hilltop on the horizon.  We didn't land the kayaks on this part of Lion Island... there is a somewhat sandier beach just to the right.

The view from "Lion Island" looking back at Ko Jum with its single hilltop on the horizon.  We didn't land the kayaks on this part of Lion Island... there is a somewhat sandier beach just to the right.

On the floating fish farm, watching Oh throw the big fishing net into the water.

On the floating fish farm, watching Oh throw the big fishing net into the water.

Another try with the big net.  You can also see here how narrow the walkways are.

Another try with the big net.  You can also see here how narrow the walkways are.

The little hut on the fish farm where Oh occasionally spends the night.

The little hut on the fish farm where Oh occasionally spends the night.

Burn, Baby, Burn

The last few days we have been focused on getting the Uza Beach Residence ready for the influx of guests during the Christmas and New Years period (even though neither of those holidays is celebrated here locally).  We have a lot of reservations on the books, and we want the property to be in tip-top shape so we can receive good reviews on Trip Advisor, Booking.com, and Agoda.com, which will help drive reservations for the rest of the high season.

The big projects certainly saw some attention.   On “What’s Your Sign,” we dug a hole in the middle of the property, at the intersection of the main walkway, and installed the signpost upon which we’d attach the colorful signs pointing to key parts of the property.  The signs went up the next day, thanks to Gaston, and look great.

Gaston, Juan, and I also installed one of the two roadside signs.  We dug to holes, installed two posts, and screwed the large sign to the posts, nearly perpendicular to the road so it was very visible as you approach on motorbike or foot.  It's a little bit lower than we wanted, but we're on a budget and so just using the wooden posts we found on the property, vs. buying new ones.  Maria re-painted and re-hung the sign at the main entrance, too.

On “Sunset Suds,” Maria and Melody painted a great “Uza Beach Bar” sign and hung it over the front of the bar.  The new bartender (local guy) showed up and added a few minor additions to the décor – a reed fish trap hanging from the ceiling, and hanging lamps in “Bob Marley colors,” he said.  Ben and I started planning the drink menu – signature drinks, standard drinks, ingredients, mixers, prices, tools, garnishes, glassware, etc.   I of course created a spreadsheet to manage this.  In a weird way, it was nice to be back in Microsoft Excel.  J

As I mentioned, we did a lot of little jobs, too.  We shaved the bottom off two bungalow doors so that they would close more easily; we raked the lawn and walkways; we trimmed some hedges; and we tidied up the common areas.  

My least favorite task was hauling trash from one end of the property to the other.  Ivan, Noe, Max, and I dumped it in a big pile and lit a very non-eco-friendly fire to burn it.  Please forgive us.  (I cringed at lighting the fire, but I have to admit, driving the 3-wheeled motorbike across the grassy field, dodging cows and iguanas, was kind of fun.)

On Sunday evening, the Helpers decided to celebrate the long weekend (or weeks?) of work by having a beach barbecue. This was the kind of burning that I do enjoy!

We all chipped in 60 Baht (about $2 USD) each, and bought the fixings for chicken and vegetable kebabs.  Ben was nice enough to let us use the kitchen to prep everything.  Then we moved to the beach, built a big fire, and used a few random grills to barbecue everything.  We sat on the beach, basking in the light of candles, bonfire, Uza Beach Bar lights, and moon.  We enjoyed the evening sharing beers, laughs, and turns on the slack-line, hanging out with each other as friends not co-workers.  

One of the roadside signs...

One of the roadside signs...

Installing the colorful signs on the signpost.

Installing the colorful signs on the signpost.

Digging up trash, loading it into buckets, and driving it by 3-wheeled motorbike to the other end of the property.

Digging up trash, loading it into buckets, and driving it by 3-wheeled motorbike to the other end of the property.

Burning trash.  I'm only smiling for the camera; I'm frowning inside.

Burning trash.  I'm only smiling for the camera; I'm frowning inside.

Now *this* is my kind of burning:  fire on the beach...

Now *this* is my kind of burning:  fire on the beach...

And then barbecuing over the beach fire!

And then barbecuing over the beach fire!

A Work Week Like No Other

Grab that coffee or glass of wine, and settle in for a long progress report from Ko Jum. 

We had another productive week at Uza Beach Residence so I have a lot of updates on the various projects, old and new.

We continued work on “Sunset Suds,” “Walk This Way,” and “Orange Crush,” and kicked off a new project “What’s Your Sign.”  Even in our downtime, many Helpers worked on small side projects, indicating how much potential we see in this place.

The week culminated with a party Friday night at Rock Bar, which is the bar just around the rocky point from Uza Beach.  Since Uza Beach provides one of two entrances to Rock Bar, many of the partygoers got a first glimpse at our renovations and improvements to Uza Beach Residence.  Unfortunately, you will have to settle for my verbal description and a few pictures.  It’s much better in real life, trust me.

Since my last update, we’ve welcomed four new Helpers (two couples from Argentina) and said goodbye to one.  We also said goodbye to Uza guest @ninaseetheworld who has been supporting our efforts for the last couple of weeks. 

I also said goodbye to any future pictures I might take on my Nikon DSLR camera, which has suddenly developed a shutter malfunction.  Nikon apparently is aware of the problem, and has issued a service advisory offering repair for free.  But, I will have to wait until I get back to the States to send my camera in.  Ironically, my camera says it was “Made in Thailand.” 

With so many Helpers (and me not distracted by taking so many pictures), here’s a summary of what we accomplished this week.

The most exciting progress relates to “Sunset Suds.”  The materials for the bar arrived early in the week, coming to us by boat and pickup truck.  The deliverymen assembled the bamboo and thatched-roof Tiki bar for us. 

Then came decision time:  which way should the bar face?  Ben and I had debated this for a few days, but now, having the physical structure here, we were able to test variations. 

In the end, supported by the other Helpers, I convinced Ben that the front of the bar should face outward, toward the beach and yard.  This would allow the music, lights, and bar scene to spill out onto the beach, and would allow the bartender more storage area behind and out of sight.

We spent the next morning filling the bar area with more sand, placing large cement blocks under each leg, and adjusting sand height until the bar counter was level.  We had quite a “fireman’s line” going to shovel sand into a bucket, pass the bucket up to the bar area, dump the sand, and pass the bucket back.

Filling the bar area with more sand required that we add another step down to the additional seating area that we had created last week.  A few of us combed the beach at low tide for big rocks that we could use.

In the additional seating area, the long wooden table looked great with its new coat of varnish and tree branch legs.  The installation was a bit tricky, trying to keep the long board stable and level, but we managed.  As you’ll see in the picture, this is really more of a counter, not table, as it’s only about 15 inches wide.

We also finished the electrical wiring to the bar.  We had to dig up a bit of the sandy bar floor to bury the final bit of piping, but that was pretty easy.  We also went back and buried the electrical and water pipes leading from the restaurant across the yard to the bar.  We installed an overhead light in the bar and a floodlight behind the bar to highlight the jungle backdrop.

The restaurant had some decorative lighting that was not being used.  These were 2-foot long plastic tubes with blue, red, and green lights inside that “drip down.”  We thought these would look cool hanging from the large tree that towers over the bar and seating area.  The animated lights would be visible from the beach and would hopefully attract curious customers.

So we ripped out the wiring and tube lights from the restaurant and re-wired all the connections.  We hung the strand of tubes from the tree, making sure the tubes hung at different levels and were visible from both restaurant and beach.  The most difficult part of this project was fighting the red ants that incessantly crawled up our legs.

We also found a string of Christmas lights in the same color as the tubes.  We ran these lights around the roofline of the bar and down two of the supporting columns.

With the flick of a switch we admired our work – fabulous – everything was working!  Coming back from dinner later that evening along the beach, it was great to see the animated lights highlighting Uza.  They created a welcoming rhythmic glow, kind of like the “come here” index finger gesture. 

Project “Walk This Way” also saw a lot of action this week.  

To my pleasant surprise, Ben had purchased a second Tiki hut structure that matched the look of the bar.  This second structure was basically a raised platform with a thatched roof and small, low table in the middle of the floor.  We put this structure across the yard from the bar.  It will be another great place to relax, order a drink, and watch the sunset.  The Helpers have already been enjoying it as a place to congregate in the morning before work with coffee, or after work with a beer.

We needed a walkway – and electricity – to this second hut. By now, we were good at both tasks, so we put our heads down and got both done in a morning.  Simultaneously, after living with the main path for a week, we decided it as too narrow.  So we embarked on widening the entire walkway by a foot. The digging doesn’t seem to end!

Leveraging the experience, skills, and materials from “Cuckoo for Coconuts” as well as people-power from so many Helpers, we installed the same coconut shell outdoor lamps to light the paths between restaurant, beach, Tiki bar, and Tiki hut.  This meant digging the long trench; feeding wire through the pipe; burying the pipe; bending iron rods for the stands; cutting, sanding, and varnishing coconut shells; gluing the sockets to the shells; and completing the wiring.  In a couple of days, this was done and the lighted path looks great.

With a new-and-improved look to Uza Beach Residence, and with more paths and destinations on the property, we decided to make some signs to welcome guests and guide them around the property.  And so, we kicked off “What’s Your Sign” project.   We created two large signs that we would place on either side of the main road, welcoming guests to Uza Beach Residence. 

We also created smaller signs to put on a post, which would indicate the direction to the bar, beach, restaurant, bathroom, etc.  A couple of the women were very creative and artistic, so they led this project; however, I showed off my creativity by making a small “San Francisco / @dannyboytravels” sign that I plan to place at Rock Bar.  (They have a post with a bunch of different signs pointing to various cities and countries.) 

We will also create signs in the shape of arrows that say “Uza Beach This Way (X km)” and will place them around the island.  Rock Bar has done this and it’s really cool.  You see the signs to Rock Bar in the oddest locations.  I think I mentioned that on one of my motorbike rides I was in a pretty remote area, and lo and behold, there was a sign for Rock Bar.  Funny.

In between the hard labor of digging ditches and moving sand, we continued with some of the easier projects.  As anticipated, “Orange Crush” continued.  We painted the side of the restaurant and back of the bathrooms.  This required a few of us to climb onto the roof and paint upside down.  It was hot up there, but we were rewarded with a unique view of the property. 

We also painted the wall next to the steps leading up to the villa. We were running out of the beloved orange paint, so we painted one section of wall orange, as a kind of highlight or continuation of the Uza theme.  We painted the rest of the wall white.  We also continued re-painting some areas of the ceiling in the villa patio. 

The first step with any of these painting projects is to scrape off as much of the old, flaking paint as possible.  The scraping seemed to be endless.  The more flaking paint we scrape, the more the paint flakes.  In the end, we did the best we could, and the walls looked great.

However, within two or three days, there were small, muddy handprints all over one section of wall, as well as the columns I had painted a few days earlier.  Was a kid running loose on the property?  No, it was the damn monkeys!  We are not yet sure what to do about this recurring problem.  We don’t want to be constantly washing and/or repainting the walls.

Some other side projects we worked on include:

  • Building a storage area and “For Rent” sign for the kayaks that is visible from the beach.
  • Fixing the lighting along the walkway up to the villa.
  • Installing slack-line posts on the beach in front of Uza. (One of the Helpers has a slack-line which provides fun entertainment in the evenings.)
  • Making table ornaments and ash trays out of sea shells.
  • Cutting the grass in the yard.
  • Picking up garbage along the street in front of the restaurant and bungalows.

In my spare time, I did laundry, hunted for squid, and took a few long walks on the beach.

So it was a busy week, with ups and downs for sure.  But frequent swims, freshly cooked lunches, beautiful sunsets, and the continual challenge of new tasks (and, yes, plenty of water) kept us moving forward.  The transformation of the property is happening, and it's really exciting.  We aren't ready to stock, staff, and open the bar yet – but we are getting close.  And now we have aspirations to build a rock barbecue.  The peak season is coming, and we'll be ready.

Even though our bar wasn’t open yet, the neighboring Rock Bar was open, and they had a big party on Friday night with live music and barbecued kebabs.  As anticipated, the party created quite a bit of foot traffic, which gave us the perfect opportunity to show off our upgrades to the Uza Beach Residence.  We made sure our drip-lights, floodlights, and walkway lights were all fully functioning and highlighted the new Tiki bar, Tiki hut, and signage.

Stay tuned for my next update.  We put the finishing touches on the bar area and celebrate with a beach barbecue. And I move out of the villa apartment and into my own jungle bungalow! 

 

The Tiki bar arrives!  (Additional seating area and low table is on left.)

The Tiki bar arrives!  (Additional seating area and low table is on left.)

A closer look at the long narrow table in the additional seating area.

A closer look at the long narrow table in the additional seating area.

Widening the walkway to the bar and beach.

Widening the walkway to the bar and beach.

The second Tiki hut which provides a nice shaded platform for sitting, eating, and relaxing.

The second Tiki hut which provides a nice shaded platform for sitting, eating, and relaxing.

On the roof, painting upside down.

On the roof, painting upside down.

Fun creative signs to help guests navigate their way around the property.

Fun creative signs to help guests navigate their way around the property.

I made my own fun sign that I will hang at a local bar where there is a post for signs pointing to all kinds of destinations.

I made my own fun sign that I will hang at a local bar where there is a post for signs pointing to all kinds of destinations.

Playing Catch Up

After the three new (and yes, backdated) posts I just uploaded, my journal is now up to date.

As you can see, I’ve been working hard here at Uza Beach Resort.  It’s been great to have additional Helpers since there is so much work to do.  I have already worn through my work gloves.  I hope to find another pair in the village.

My volunteer schedule has basically been Monday through Friday, 9am to 2pm.  I then have the late afternoons and weekends free to explore, or rest.

Last weekend I made the 4-hour boat trip to Phuket (long-tail boat from Ko Jum to Ko Phi Phi, and then ferry to Phuket) to meet friends of friends who may be able to help me break into the sailing community.  It was a long trip, but one that will hopefully pay off in the long run.  I’m excited.  (And of course I'm very grateful to all of those involved in setting up and participating in the meeting.)

The ferry portion of that trip was what you might expect – the boat was full of young backpackers soaking up the sun, listening to music on headphones, and/or sleeping off their hangovers. 

The long-tail boat coming home from Ko Phi Phi to Ko Jum was another rough ride of 3-4 foot swells.  With each rise and fall of the bow, we hoped the boat would hold together – especially after one of the floorboards came loose.  (This is just the flooring, not the actual hull.)  We had to stop halfway across the channel to siphon out water from the bottom of the boat.   We made it though. 

In the evenings, I’ve been pretty much a creature of habit, having found a couple of great restaurants and bars nearby.  Jungle Hill Bungalows has a great treehouse type restaurant, and is run by the wife of my long-tail boat captain.  Hongyog, run by Rosa, is arguably the best restaurant on the island.  Great food, great price, big portions, and accompanied by Rosa's infectious laugh.  For bars, my favorites are Rock Bar (built by owner, bartender, and resident "Boss") and FU Bar (run by Gala and Oh, whose familiar chant, "Hello, welcome to FU Bar" will always make me smile).  More recently, I've also been down to Coco Bar on the southern end of the island.  It's a mellow restaurant and bar, right on the beach, with a big platform swing that is fun to sit on and watch the sun go down.

It's been a fantastic few weeks working hard and yet having ample time to relax and enjoy island life...  I've got a few more weeks to go, but I already know I'm going to miss Ko Jum.

At Coco Bar in southern Ko Jum, watching the sun go down.

At Coco Bar in southern Ko Jum, watching the sun go down.

Time for new gloves!

Time for new gloves!

Stopping halfway between islands to pump water out of the bottom of the boat.  

Stopping halfway between islands to pump water out of the bottom of the boat.