Painting the Town...Orange?

The physical labor of digging ditches and hauling sand in this heat is tiring.  We try to stagger the days of hard work with days of easier work – like filling the gaps in flooring with silicone (see "Critter Control" or painting. 

Yes, over the last few weeks, I’ve done some small painting projects.  I haven’t really written about it because the work hasn’t been that exciting or impactful.  I painted the square stilts of Bungalow A1, the columns outside the Villa, and the columns of the terrace overlooking the ocean.  I used plain white paint to give these structural elements a fresh, clean look.  

This week, however, we launched a larger-scale painting project, “Orange Crush.” The name refers to the dominant color at Uza Beach Resort:  bright orange.  

The objective of this project was to paint the structure adjacent to the restaurant, which housed three bathrooms.  The structure was currently white, but the paint was cracked and peeling.  In some sections, black mold had appeared.

It took all six of us one full day to scrape off as much old paint as we could, using a variety of tools we found in the storage area – trowels, wire brush, rusted blade of an old hoe, and even a crow bar.  By midday, we were hot, tired, and perhaps a bit frustrated that this work was so slow, tedious, and messy.  I wasn’t exactly sure how safe the paint chips and dust were.

After lunch, even though the surface wasn’t as well-prepared as it should have been, we started painting.  We had prepped about 75% percent of the building, including the most visible sections.  We figured we would try just painting over the remaining old paint.  If it didn’t work with two coats, we could always go back to more scraping.

Using rollers and brushes of all shapes and sizes, we attacked the structure and got a full coat of paint on before we stopped for the day.

The next day, I had the day off – but the other Helpers put a second coat on, and the building looks great.  The portion that we didn’t scrape seems to look just fine, too.  Amazing what two coats of orange paint can hide.  :-) 

Given the dominance of orange on the property, I think “Orange Crush” will continue on in future updates.  I have my brush and roller ready...  Stay tuned. 

Helpers scraping old paint and mold off the building.

After the first coat of paint. 

Walk This Way

With so many new Helpers, we are shifting the project work into high gear.  This last week, we kicked off a new project called “Walk This Way.” 

Between the restaurant and the beach is a large grassy area, which I have described before -- there are a couple of large trees, our new bar and seating area, and the kayak parking lot.  A few cement stepping-stones extend part way across this lush green landscape.

We thought it would look nice to have a clear, clean path from the restaurant to the beach, and a second path from the main path to the bar.  So, that was the objective of “Walk this Way.”

Over the next several days, we toiled in the hot sun, digging up the grass and dirt, and hauling and spreading sand from the beach.  The four guys focused on this part of the project, taking turns at each position and with each tool.

The two women focused on gathering coral from the beach and lining the edges of the walkway with soft-ball sized chunks of coral.   They used a kayak to transport the coral from one end of the beach to the other.

We also redid the steps down to the beach from the grassy area.  The old steps were narrow and steep.  We doubled the width (using two cement stepping-stones for each step), and added another step to make the climb a bit easier and safer.

Between the bar area and walkways, we’ve moved a lot of dirt, grass, and sand.  The yard is really looking good.  I’m glad we made the bar area a bit larger.  The additional seating area will be fantastic once we install the long wooden table and put some colorful mats down in the sand. The walkways add a clean look to the yard, not to mention a safe way to get to/from the beach.  We have certainly seen snakes and other creatures lurking in the grass, so having the nice sandy path is a good idea.

One challenge will be to keep these areas clean and neat.  I’ve already seen monkeys and children playing in these would-be sandboxes.  And I’ve seen the local kitty take pleasure in what might be the largest litter box on the planet…

Breaking ground on the walkway to the beach!

A clever way to transport coral from one end of the beach to the other.

The walkway from the restaurant to the beach.  Sand, lined with coral.  This will be a lot better than trudging across the long grass which may hide snakes, frogs, centipedes, and other interesting characters...

Fork in the road.  The path between restaurant, beach, and bar.

We built new and improved steps down to the beach, too.  (In this picture, we aren't quite done, but close enough to give you the idea.)

Just Add Water (and Electricity)

We have made a lot of progress at Uza Beach Resort over the last week thanks to great effort by my fellow Helpers.

Elias (from a German-speaking village in northern Italy) put in several days of hard work before he left for kick-boxing school in Phuket.  Another five helpers have arrived since then – Max and Nui from France, and a traveling trio (Mathilde and Opheli from France, and Ivan from Russia).  It’s been fantastic to have so much help, and fun company!

The beach bar project, “Sunset Suds,” continues to move forward slowly.  Ben has ordered the materials for the actual bar structure.  It will arrive by boat in 10+ days, which is fine since Ben and I don’t yet agree on which way the bar will face:  facing the beach (so that beachgoers see the front of the bar and feel welcome), or facing the resort (so that as customers sit at the bar, they are looking out at the beach)?  I vote for the former, Ben for the latter.

In the meantime, we continue with the “infrastructure” for the bar. 

Elias and I managed to fill in the original bar area with sand but then, after discussing with Ben, we decided to expand the bar area by about another meter on one side – we moved the rock border, dug up the grass, and filled in with more sand.

Then with the other Helpers, we created a second seating area adjacent to the bar, under the large tree.  This area would include a long, low wooden table facing the beach where you could rest your drink as you settle into a mat or cushion on the sand and enjoy the view. 

To create this area, we first built a retaining wall where the beach rises steeply up to Uza’s grassy yard.  We used large rocks and cement blocks.  We packed in dirt to level out the area; however it was still lower than the bar area, so we also built a step down from the bar using rocks from the beach.  Along the edge of the seating area closest to the beach (just back from the retaining wall), we buried two posts that would be the “legs” of the narrow table.  Then we filled the area with sand, and lined the front edge with chunks of coral. 

We sanded down the long plank that would become the table, and gave it two coats of varnish.  It looked great.  We can’t install it yet since we don’t have electricity to power the drill.

With the basic footprint of the bar and adjacent seating area done, we next worked on getting water and electricity to the bar.  We began the long, slow process of digging a trench from the corner of the restaurant out to the bar area.  In this trench we would bury two pipes – one for water and one for electrical wiring.

The digging alone took us a whole morning.  We were using one good hoe, one broken hoe, one handheld hoe, and a shovel.  Not ideal, but we managed.  We navigated around rocks and roots, removing what we could while trying not to damage our precious tools.

The hard physical work required several water breaks – either drinking it or swimming in it.  Or both.  I also enjoyed relaxing in the shade of our new bar seating area.

Once the trench was done, we gathered up all the plastic piping around the property and took inventory of what we had.  Ben had been redoing some of the electrical and water in the villa, and had saved the old pipes.  They were still in acceptable shape for our needs, so we used them.

Amazingly, we found enough pipes, joints, and corner pieces to run all of the electrical.  Ben just had to buy one more section of blue pipe for the water.

For the water pipes, we joined the sections using glue that we found in the storage area.  Ben helped us tap into the existing water pipe and add a 3-way intersection and emergency shut off valve.  We fit that pipe into the bottom of the trench.

Next, for the electrical, we fed the new wire through all the pipes, joints, and corners, making sure we did it in the right order.  Then we fitted everything together and laid that series of pipes on top of the water pipe. 

The next step will be to bury the pipes; however we may drill a few holes in the bottom of the electrical pipes first, so that if water does get into the pipe, it will drain away.  We need to check with Ben on this, and also need an extension cord for the drill. 

All in all, "Sunset Suds" is moving right along.  I can't wait to pour that first beer....

Increasing the size of the bar area (and creating additional seating area to the left).

Digging the trench for the pipes carrying water and electricity to the bar.

This wooden plank will become a long narrow table or counter to put your drink on as you enjoy the view.

Testing the placement of the table, and checking out the view it will provide.

"Critter Control" Commences

My next project was “Critter Control”.  Similar to “Sunset Suds”, this was going to be a longer-term project that would span days, if not weeks.

The hard wood flooring in the bungalows had gaps between the planks, allowing all kinds of critters to potentially enter the room. 

Some might say (and I might agree) that the very nature of bungalows, in many cases, is that they are not exactly nature-proof.  I have inspected bungalows on several other properties, and most have intentional open-air sections, especially between the upper wall and ceiling.

However, the Uza Beach bungalows are not thatched-roof structures.  They are actually more traditional wood and cement structures that have the potential to be more sealed up than a typical bungalow.  Making them more secure from insect invasion might actually attract higher-end tourists that can’t sleep soundly with spiders, ants, geckos, and other critters crawling around the room.

That was the rationale behind “Critter Control.”  My objective was to fill the gaps in the planks with silicone to help prevent unwanted creepy-crawly guests.  This was going to be my first, or maybe second, experience with silicone.

So off I went, with silicone gun and canisters in hand.  I spent two and a half days sealing up two of the bungalows.  I was by no means an expert, but certainly got better, cleaner lines with each length of flooring.

Unfortunately, I quickly realized this was a bit of a lost cause.  There were gaps everywhere – not just between the floor boards, but around the molding, under the door, along the windows, etc.  Sealing the floor would help, but it would not make the bungalow immune to insect invasion. 

I explained to Ben, but he wanted me to continue.  His thinking was that every little bit would help – and the floor was the most visually apparent risk for insects.

After completing two bungalows (and some other Helpers had done two other ones during their stay), we had four done. 

At the time of this writing, additional Helpers have arrived, and they have dutifully tackled yet another bungalow.  We have a lot more to do.  Since this project is indoors, it’s a good activity for rainy days – which are still relatively frequent here.  So it’s likely this project will continue as a backup activity when our outdoor projects are rain-delayed.  Expect more updates on “Critter Control” in the future.

Speaking of which, here is an update on another long term project, "Sunset Suds."  At the time of this writing (December 8), the bar materials have been ordered.  They are due to arrive in 10 days.  In Thai time, that may mean a month, but at least we have forward progress.  In the meantime, we will begin digging a ditch to run the electrical wire and pipe from the street out to the beachfront bar.  Stay tuned for updates on that work, as well as a couple other shorter-term projects that are underway.

It's exciting times at Uza!

You can't seem them, but the monkeys were back, hanging around in the trees watching me.  

As I worked, I listened to iTunes and took a few pictures with my GoPro and DSLR cameras.  If/when I get time, I'll make a video of my various projects here.

The Other Use for Half Coconut Shells

On Wednesday, November 25, 2015, I began helping the only remaining Helper (an electrician) with a new project called, “Cuckoo for Coconuts.”  

Without lighting, the walkways around the Uza Beach bungalows were very dark at night, undoubtedly giving all but the most intrepid guests an uneasy feeling as they returned home for the evening. 

Our objective for this project was to install outdoor lighting along the two paths that lead to the bungalows.  The lighting would consist of a series of “coconut lamps.” 

Each lamp would have two components that we would have to make:  The “shade” would be an upside down half coconut shell with a polished varnish finish, and the “stand” would be a iron rod in the shape of a question mark from which we would hang the shade.

Ben was in charge of making the shades, which he did over a series of quiet evenings in the Uza Beach restaurant. 

Mikeli and I made the stands.  We cut a long iron rod into sections, and used a pipe and special metal-bending device to make the rods into curvy question marks.  Mikeli deserves credit for making most of the stands, but he was a patient teacher as he watched me make my share of stands.  Each stand was slightly different from the prototype.  One was too big, one was too curvy, one was crooked…but alas, that added to the “beach bungalow feel” to the place, we decided.  You don’t expect things to be perfect at this type of resort.  I ultimately got the hang of the technique.  It is opportunities like this to learn a new skill (simple as it may be) that make my volunteering so interesting.

With the shades and stands manufactured, we moved on to the ground work and installation.

For the next couple of days, fending off mosquitos, monkeys, and the hot sun, we worked on two pathways leading to the Bungalows. 

One path was completely new, so we dug a long trench parallel to the desired path, fed the electrical wire through a plastic pipe, and buried the pipe leaving access points about every 5-7 meters.  At these points, we cut into the pipe, pulled up the slack in the wiring, spliced in the wiring from the lamp, and installed the stand and shade.  Then we buried the remaining section of pipe.

The second path already had wiring and piping, but no lights.  The existing wiring was going to be too short by the time we used the slack to run up each of the hanging lamps.  So we bought new longer wire and fed it through the existing piping, removing the old wiring.  All of this was done while the pipe was still underground (except for the beginning and ending points, of course.)  Then, similar to the other path, we dug access points every 5-7 meters and followed the same installation approach.  In this case, since we didn’t know exactly where the pipe was buried, we had to be a bit careful in our trial-and-error probing with the hoe.  (Fortunately, it was laid in more or less a straight line, so it got easier as we went.) 

Once the stands were planted, lamps hung, and electrical wire secured, I then went around with a can of black spray paint and painted the stand and wire black.  The coconut shells remained in their nice brown varnish finish.   We also put some mulch around the base of each lamp as a finishing touch. 

The project took us a few days – and thanks to MIkeli the electrician for really leading the project from a technical standpoint.  Unfortunately, he didn’t get to see the final result because even though we had installed and tested over 25 lights, we didn’t have enough light bulbs to get everything lit up before Mikeli had to continue with his travels!  The local stores here on Ko Jum just aren’t that heavy on inventory.

It was only until about a week later when Ben had time to go to Krabi Town on the mainland to stock up on new light bulbs.

By the time of this writing, the bulbs are in and the well-lit paths look great!  This new feature adds an element of safety and security to the property.  The island-themed coconut lights provide a welcoming beacon to guests as they make their way back from one of the local restaurants or from an evening walk on the beach.

Even the local monkeys came by to inspect our work.  (One even brought her baby.)  They probably wondered what we had been doing with all of their coconuts!  I think they approved because so far they haven’t ripped out any of the lamps.

“Cuckoo for Coconuts” is done!

Digging the ditch for the electrical wire and pipe.

Laying in the pipe (with electrical wire inside) and burying it).

The coconut half shell shade and stand - BEFORE paint.

The coconut half shell shade and stand - AFTER paint.

Monkey coming to inspect our work.

Full monkey inspection committee, including baby clinging to his mom's underside.

Here's how it looks at night, complete with tree floodlight that we also installed.

Welcome to the (Concrete) Jungle!

Putting “Sunset Suds” on hold, I joined three other Helpers on a short, urgent project called “Concrete Jungle.”

The objective of this project was to repair a large hole in the pavement floor of the storage area behind the restaurant.  The hole had filled with rainwater and was now a festering cesspool of mosquito larvae and garbage.

We first filled the hole with sand.  We loaded buckets of sand from the beach onto the sidecar of the motorbike, and drove the motorbike across the bumpy lawn up to the storage area.  I lost track of how many buckets or trips we needed, but it was a lot. 

Using random materials we found around the property, we built a few more things required before pouring concrete.  Ben wanted a short paved walkway extending out from the patio, so we built a wood frame for that.  Since we didn’t have paving tools to work with the concrete, we also made a couple of makeshift trowels and hand floats from wood.

Then the mixing began.  We combined the cement powder, sand, gravel, and water in a large tub to magically create concrete.  When we had the consistency just right, we shoveled it on top of the sand and smoothed it out.  We got about halfway done before lunch was ready.  Since our volunteer hours were 9am to 2pm (and lunch was served at 2pm), we would have to continue the work next week.  That was fine with me as I was hot, drenched with sweat, and tired.

I ended up taking Monday off, because I spent the weekend on the island of Ko Phi Phi.  I was late getting back Monday because the sea was too rough to make it safely in the long-tail boat.  We tried initially, but turned around after 15 minutes of bashing through the waves.  The rest of the passengers asked for refunds and took an indirect, 4-hour route on a ferry.  I waited with the captain for an hour, and then we tried again – this time with a second boat accompanying us for safety.  And we made the 1-hour journey safely.  But I was late getting back to Uza; Ben was flexible and understanding.

So on Tuesday, with two of the other Helpers leaving that day, I reconvened work on “Concrete Jungle.”  (The third Helper, an electrician, was working on a new project.)  I wasn’t going to quit until I finished mixing and pouring the concrete.  Needless to say, it was a long day but I got it done.  The only thing remaining was to make a mini-manhole cover to place over a water valve where we had left an access hole in the concrete.  I did that the next day, using an old cooking pot as a mold.  No more mosquitos or foul-smelling water. 

“Concrete Jungle” is done!  And now I know how to mix, pour, and finish concrete!

This repair job was not very professional - just a sloppy patch of concrete to fill the hole. It was an emergency procedure that should be redone at some point when the entire storage area is ready to be updated.

All function, no form.   We just needed to fill and plug the hole.  We can dial this in at a later date. This storage area is pretty much out of sight anyway.

Sunset Suds

Having finally arrived at my destination, I was ready to settle in and get to work.  The next several journal entries will describe the work I’m doing here and the impact I’m making.

The Uza Beach Resort on the island of Ko Jum is a large property with four main components. 

-       An open-air restaurant facing the beach which presents beautiful sunset over the distant Ko Phi Phi island.

-       Two rows of private, elevated bungalows with bathrooms and fans.

-       A four-apartment “villa” on the hill overlooking the ocean.  These rooms have air conditioning.

-       A grassy yard with large shady trees, leading down to the beach.

Like many places on this island (as well as other islands), the property needs a bit of renovation.  Ok maybe a lot of renovation.  It’s exciting, though, because the property has a ton of potential.

At the time of this writing, I’ve been here about 10 days, and my projects have varied in complexity, required skills, and length.  And I’m typically working on multiple projects at a time. 

As I describe my projects and progress, I would love to hear from any readers who have suggestions or comments.  Is there a better way to mix concrete?  Have you ever installed outdoor lighting?  You can leave a comment on a post, or email me directly at dannyboytravels@gmail.com.  Thanks!

My first, biggest, and longest-term project is building a bar just off the beach, in the corner of the yard.  The location is perfect.  The bar will be partially shaded by one of the giant trees, and will offer its patrons a gorgeous view of the beach, ocean, and sunset. Drink service will be convenient for beach guests, and will provide Ben with a high-margin revenue stream.  (Currently, guests have to go up to the restaurant to order drinks, and/or the server has to deliver drinks via the same 50-meter walk.)   

We want to create a pleasant "bar atmosphere" with music, colorful lights, hammocks, and chaise lounges.  The bar itself will be Tiki Hut style - bamboo with thatched roof - set within a sandy pit surrounded by a low rock wall.  A few bar stools and beachy knick knacks will complete the scene...and perhaps a bartender from San Francisco.

I called this project “Sunset Suds” because it will be a nice place to enjoy a cold beer at sunset after a hard day swimming and sunning at the beach.  (And it’s a nod to one of my favorite movies, Shawshank Redemption.)

When Ben told me about this project, I was excited and shared his vision for the end result.  I spent an hour unpacking and getting settled, but then immediately got to work on the project – even though it was already late in the afternoon and I had just arrived.  I guess my intense work ethic hasn’t diminished even after a month of vacation. 

Ben initially wanted me to haul sand from the beach and just pour it over the 12 foot x 12 foot grassy square that he had marked with rocks as the footprint for the bar.  After about 10 buckets full of sand (and about as many buckets of sweat), I sat back for a minute and thought about what I was doing.   Wouldn’t it actually be better to clear the land of grass and roots, level it, and then pour the sand in as the foundation?  Yes.

So I made the suggestion to Ben and he agreed.  (I’ve since found out that Ben is very open to suggestions and feedback on how to improve Uza, which is a great characteristic of his.)  I made a further suggestion -- perhaps we could even find a weed-prevention cloth to place on the muddy earth before we put sand on.

With my new direction, I found a hoe and began whacking away at the grass and roots.  After another hour or two, the foundation was already taking shape…as were the blisters on my hands. I had brought work gloves but they were already getting worn in a few spots.  I got about 25% done before I took a break for the evening.

The next day, I resumed work on “Sunset Suds” and cleared another 50% of the foundation.  I was up to 75% done with clearing of the land.  The roots were really slowing me down.  And there was one big stump in the corner that I was ignoring for now.  Removing that was going to be a challenge with the very limited selection of tools and supplies we have at Uza.

On the third day, Ben introduced a new project that was higher priority.  I put “Sunset Suds” on hold, and joined three other Helpers on “Concrete Jungle.”

More on that next time…

Breaking ground on project "Sunset Suds."  This is going to be a great little beach bar... eventually.  Right now it requires a little imagination...

Ko Jum, Here I Come!

On the morning of Wednesday, November 18, 2015, I checked out of Grandmom’s Place in Krabi Town, took my pre-arranged pickup truck to the main pier, and boarded the ferry to Ko Lanta. But I would get off the ferry at the halfway point, at an “open-sea stop.”  A long-tail boat would pull up beside us and I would hop onto that boat, which would take me to shore.  It sounded like something out of a James Bond movie.

Sure enough, that’s about how it went down, but in slow motion, and minus a tuxedo, a British accent, a beautiful woman, and bad guys chasing us.

After I boarded the long-tail boat, we untied the line, and the ferry continued on.  We made a sharp turn to port and headed to shore.  I hopped out, into the breaking waves, with my backpack snug on my back and my flip flops in my hand.  I turned and waved to my smiling captain and crew.  “Thank you!”

I walked about 200 meters up the beach and there it was:  Uza Beach Residence, with its bungalows, hilltop villa, bright orange restaurant, and westward-facing beach with umbrellas, chairs, hammocks, and kayaks.  

This was going to be my home for the next several weeks.

Ben, the property manager, promptly came out to greet me.  He was a young German man who has only been managing the place for a few months, but has been living on Ko Jum for a few years.  He is quickly trying to make renovations and improvements before the high tourism season in December-March. 

And I’m here to help!

Stay tuned to hear about my projects and experiences as we turn this fixer-upper into the resort it was born to be.

The ferry from Krabi to Ko Lanta, overflowing with backpacking tourists.

I hopped off the ferry, James-Bond-style, onto a long-tail boat which took me to the smaller, less developed island of Ko Jum.  Notice the captain, in true DBT form, giving a double thumbs up!

I made it!  Hello Uza Beach Resort!  I'm so glad to meet you!

The restaurant and kayaks.

The bungalows (in not-so-good lighting).  

Hard to be Crabby in Krabi

After Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi, my next stop was the mainland town of Krabi.  I had heard Krabi was nice and figured it was worth stopping for a night or two.

The town itself was a nice combination of bustling Thai retail shops and food markets, intermixed with cafes, restaurants, and backpacker hostels.  There were a couple of neighboring beaches that were supposed to be good, too.

Getting to Krabi turned out to be a bit of an adventure though.  But without any plan or timeline, I was merely amused by these situations rather than stressed out. 

On Monday, November 16, 2015, I took a speedboat from Ko Yao Yai to Krabi.  Easy right?  Wrong.  We ran out of gas halfway there! How that happened, I have no idea.  That said, these multi-engine speedboats do suck up the gas:  200 liters a day, is what the captain said. 

The captain called for a second boat to bring us fuel, then he and his 2-man crew whipped out makeshift fishing lines and started fishing, as if it was a perfectly normal day.  It was hilarious!  Meanwhile, some of the passengers were getting nervous as they had planes or buses to catch.  As for me, I just sat back and enjoyed watching the scene unfold.  I certainly didn’t mind the quiet drifting (kind of like sailing) instead of the thunderous roar of the three 250 horsepower engines we had on board.  The crew didn’t catch any fish, but I was amazed at how calm they were despite the risk of disappointed passengers.   You might say they were opportunistic, using the down time to do something productive.

Upon arriving at the pier at Ao Nang (adjacent to Krabi), my adventure continued.  I had to find my hotel in Krabi, about 30 minutes away over land.  I had the address and cross streets, but that was it.   I was too budget conscious to just hire a taxi, though that certainly would have been the easiest and “old Dan” solution. 

Instead, I asked my speedboat captain and he pointed to an intersection and said “Bus.”   The bus turned out to be just a pickup truck with bench seating in the back.  I hopped on for 50 baht (about $1.50) and hoped for the best, not having any idea about the route or where to get off. 

I knew Krabi was about 30 minutes from the pier.  So I set my watch and at the 30 minute mark, I jumped out of the pickup (at a stoplight).

It would have been easy to just hop into an internet café and update google maps, but for some reason I was too stubborn to do that.  I just asked a few people for directions to my hotel and then walked a bit, then asked a few more people and walked again.  After about 45 minutes, I finally found it.  Turns out it was actually very close to where I originally got off the pickup truck!  Clearly I got a series of only semi-accurate directions. 

My hotel was called “Grandmom Place,” and turned out to be decent, in a great location, and only $28/night.

That evening, I just parked myself at Mr. Krab-I restaurant, where I met the owner Max.  He’s an ex-sailor and rigger so we talked for quite a while.  He was a very interesting guy, having worked on America’s Cup boats, Wally yachts, etc.

I spent the next day back at Ao Nang beach.  It was quite pretty, especially the very small island just a few hundred yards offshore.  (I swam, well waded, there.)  

After a swim and lunch, I headed back to the hotel via pickup truck.  It was another adventure.  This time, although I had a vague idea where my hotel was, the driver was going so fast that I found it difficult to orient myself.  I guessed again, and guessed wrong.  I ended up walking in the pouring rain for 30 minutes.

That evening, I headed to the night market and was tempted to indulge in all of the street food that was super cheap (e.g., a plate of pad thai for a dollar).  After some stomach troubles in Bangkok, I withstood the temptation and instead headed to Viva Restaurant to meet Renato, a friend of Max from last night.  Renato was super nice, and my vegetarian pizza was outstanding.   His restaurant was nice, clean, and friendly.

I closed the night with some live music at a bar near my hotel.  But I didn’t stay out late because the next day I would head to Ko Jum, and that’s where the real adventure would begin.  I would meet my host, see my new “home,” and learn about exactly what volunteering work I would be doing.

Out of gas?  No problem.  Let's go fishing for a while.

The beach at Ao Nang.  Nice, but I've seen nicer.  I took a swim out to those rocks.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but the night market in Krabi is fantastic if you want an authentic and inexpensive Thai dinner.

Yai or Noi?

As I mentioned in my last post, I decided to put my Phuket sailing plans on hold and pursue a volunteer opportunity on the island of Ko Jum. I told my host, Ben, that I would arrive on Ko Jum in about a week.  I wanted to take my time getting there, and visit a few other islands along the way.  The following are a few highlights from the week.

(Note:  After talking with a fellow traveler and more experienced blogger, I may shift the focus of my writing in future posts.  We’ll see.  She was certainly inspiring.  Check out www.ninaseetheworld.com)

On the morning of Thursday, November 12, 2015, I headed to the pier in Phuket Town and arranged for a speedboat to take me to the island of Ko Yao Yai.  Rumors indicated that this island was quieter, less developed, and less touristy than some of the other islands.  It sounded great to me.

After a 30-minute boat ride and 5-minute drive in the back of a pickup, I arrived at my hotel – Baan Taranya – located about halfway down the eastern coast of Ko Yao Yai.  Once again, I lucked out with my hotel choice.  Baan Taranya was fabulous!  My room was perfect, with a sliding glass door entry, air conditioning, and modern bathroom.  The property included a restaurant, pool, and a beach bar that was still under construction. I was tempted to offer my labor in exchange for the room, but decided to spend my time exploring the island rather than working.

So I rented a motorbike, and for the next 3 days I drove around the island, as well as its neighboring sister island Ko Yao Noi, just to the north.  Similar in layout, both islands have one main paved road, with narrower dirt roads that branch off and lead to beaches, fishing villages, mangroves, or in some cases private residences or resorts.  It was nearly impossible to get lost, or so I thought.  Let’s just say that in a few cases it took me longer than expected to get to my destination.

At several points during my motorbike adventure, I found secluded beaches where the only footprints were mine.  It was amazing, and in stark contrast to some of the beaches I visited later in my trip.  My favorite beach was about 1/2 mile long, with fine grain white sand and a big tree at one end casting a cool shadow on the sand.  Not being a major sun-bather, I enjoyed sitting under the protection of this tree, soaking in the view and fantasizing that I was on one of the sailboats I saw gliding silently along the horizon.  I nicknamed the spot “Crabby Point” because the sand seemed to be alive with hermit crabs crawling around.

At the southern end of Ko Yao Yai, after a few kilometers of riding along a bumpy dirt road, I found a remote fishing village that clearly had not seen many tourists.  I parked my motorbike and walked down the road.  I might as well have been walking back in time.  I bought a Fanta from a woman basically selling beverages out of her house, and sat on some steps to take it all in:  the weathered houses on stilts, the long-tail boats with colorful ribbons around their pointy bows, the women in full Muslim garments, the assortment of fishing and crabbing gear stacked along the docks.  There were a lot of children running around the streets and playing along the shoreline.  They would giggle a “Hello” to me and then scurry away.

To explore the sister island Ko Yao Noi, I paid some gentlemen to load my motorbike onto their long tail boat and take me across the channel. This second island was smaller, yet more developed and more touristy than Ko Yao Yai.  Pasai Beach was nice, lined with bungalows to rent and palm trees to sit under.  Following a long dirt road, I found Paradise Resort which was quite impressive, and exclusive.  On the western part of the island, I found a fishing village with a couple of seafood restaurants – but unfortunately I had already eaten.  These high points aside, I was very glad that I was staying on the more rustic and authentic Ko Yao Yai.  In fact, I cut my day on Ko Yao Noi short, and headed back across the channel so that I could enjoy one more afternoon at Crabby Point.  

By Monday, November 16, 2015, having exhausted my land-based exploration options, I rented a long tail boat (with a 2-man crew) and toured a few of the very small neighboring islands.  This was a bit disappointing, as the islands we visited were clearly part of a standard tourist route.  The beaches were lined with long-tail boats and packed with tourists wielding selfie-sticks and snorkeling gear.

There were a couple of islands on the half-day tour that are worthy of noting. 

The island of Ko Hong consisted of towering cliffs rising out of the water, yet they hid a shallow lagoon in the middle of the island.  The lagoon was accessible only through a narrow entrance, wide enough for two boats to pass side-by-side. Unfortunately due to the recent rains and wind the water was too cloudy for snorkeling, but I did enjoy a dip in the warm water.    

We also stopped at an island that couldn’t have been more than 2 kilometers of shoreline – perhaps too small for the big tourist groups to visit.  But we pulled right up on the beach (which may not be there during high tide).  My captain and I jumped out, and he led me up a steep trail to the top of the limestone cliff.  This gave us a fantastic 360-degree view of the islands.  I snapped a few photos and video, and then climbed back down… all the while nervous that I was in flip flops.

After about 4 hours, we headed back to Ko Yao Yai.  I had a speedboat to catch that afternoon, which would take me over to Krabi – my next stop on my route to Ko Jum. 

Knowing that I had checked out of my hotel, the captain offered to take me to his house so that I could shower and eat lunch before my trip to Krabi.  I respectfully declined, saying that I would just shower once at my hotel in Krabi.  He understood, but he still insisted that he give me a free ride on the back of his motorbike to the pier.  So he dropped me at the pier and we said goodbye.  Or so I thought. 

Thirty minutes later, the captain returned with a box of chicken fried rice and a bottle of water for me!  He and his friend waited for another thirty minutes while I ate, and made sure I got on the right speed boat to Krabi.  I was touched by his thoughtfulness, generosity, and genuine care for my well-being.  The longer I am in Thailand, I realize this is the norm, not the exception.  The people here are amazing.

My speedboat arrived at 3:30pm that afternoon, and I said goodbye to Ko Yao Yai – a hidden treasure of Thailand.  Let’s keep it our little secret.

Only my footprints in the sand.  I didn't see a single person on the beach the whole afternoon.

A local fisherman.

My boat-trip crew who exemplified Thai customer-service and genuine friendliness by bringing me lunch and water before my trip to Krabi.  Thanks guys! 

One of the many amazing sunsets.

The 360-degree view from the top of an island!

Dinner on the beach at sunset - grilled prawns cooked right in front of me, and a mango shake!.

Aw Phuket

I arrived in Phuket on the afternoon of Monday, November 9, and planned to head to the southern end of the island.  I had heard that cruisers often stop in Chalong Bay and that a few yacht clubs had sprouted as a result.

My trip south on Phuket was quite an adventure.  My cab driver was a lunatic, driving at twice the speed limit, passing on blind curves, driving on the shoulder, and driving without headlights. When we arrived at my hotel, he turned to me and said, “Good driver, huh?  Tip for me?”  I tipped him, but just because I was grateful to be alive!

I checked into the beachfront hotel, Kantary Bay Hotel, where I had made advance reservations.  The friendly staff showed me to my room, which was an amazing suite with a living room, kitchen, and huge balcony overlooking the swimming pool directly below, and the island-freckled Andaman Sea beyond.  I also received access to the neighboring, upper-scale sister hotel, Cape Panwa Hotel, whose best feature in my opinion was the piano bar and the complementary 2 free drinks.  It was a great deal for just $60/night.

I spent the next two days exploring the area by foot and by motorbike, and visited a few local sailing organizations along the way.   Exploring by motorbike was very fun, except I had to be very careful since they drive on the left over here.

The first day I met with Chris, from www.day-sailing-phuket.com.  He was very nice but unfortunately the news he had for me was not what I wanted to hear:  I was too early in the season, and even at “high season” there just is not that much activity. In addition, most of the sailing is on catamarans, which I don’t have any experience on.  He referred me to a couple other sailing organizations that I could check out the next day.

The second day, I rented a motorbike and visited two more organizations.  The Phuket Yacht Club at Chalong Bay had good facilities and beachfront bar operation.  Unfortunately, the manager delivered the same message as Chris:  too early.  After downing a delicious mango shake at their bar, I left a notice on the bulletin board to broadcast my availability as crew. 

Next, I went to the Phuket Cruising Club, which was a bit hard to find.  This basically turned out to be a beachfront bar with a sign out front that said “Phuket Cruising Club”.   I wasn’t sure if it was just a joke, or if some activity did happen here periodically.  While waiting for the owner to return from errands, I enjoyed a beer and soaked in the view.  The owner never showed.  So, with a slight sense of defeat after two days of poking around, I hopped on the motorbike and headed back along the windy road to my hotel.

On the way back to the hotel, I weighed my options.  (A) Wait around in Phuket for a couple of weeks, hoping that the sailing activity picks up?  (B) Put sailing on hold, and continue my journey, pursuing one of the volunteer opportunities I’ve found on www.helpx.net?   In either case, I could still monitor sailing opportunities via www.findacrew.net.

I chose option (B).  I would feel better moving on and doing something productive, knowing that sailing will eventually come.  So I decided to leave Phuket in the morning. 

I would head to a small, lesser-known island, Ko Jum, to help the management at Uza-Beach Residence.  There was no direct route, which was fine with me.  A bit of island-hopping sounded fun.

So the next morning I hired a taxi to take me to Phuket Town (thankfully with a safer driver this time).  Upon arriving, I walked down to the bustling Bang Rong Pier and chatted to the locals about hiring a boat to take me to my next island adventure... 

The view from the boardwalk outside my hotel at Cape Panwa.

Classic long-tail boat at sunset.

Young sailor making sure the beach anchor lines are secure.

Daytime view from the boardwalk in front of hotel.

I've been drinking a lot of fruit shakes.  Mango.  Banana-pineapple.  Even blueberry.

My posting at Phuket Yacht Club.

This "yacht club" wasn't very official looking...or very crowded.

One Night in Bangkok

Well, it was actually 8 nights.  (And upon arriving at the quiet, tranquil, southern end of Phuket, I realized maybe I stayed in Bangkok a few days too many.  But, let's back up...)

I arrived in Bangkok on Sunday, November 1, 2015, after the short 2-day stay in Hong Kong (See "Halloween in Hong Kong" post).  Per my visa, I have 60 days in Thailand overall, and am starting with these 7 days in Bangkok.   My length of stay in Bangkok was influenced by my friends' and family's schedule of arrivals and departures.  I probably wouldn't have stayed so long otherwise.

Regardless, as it turned out, I was quite impressed by Bangkok (and Thailand) so far.  Yes, the city is hot, dirty, and noisy, and the traffic is nuts.  But the people are so kind, helpful, and polite.  And despite the traffic, there are multiple ways to get around town – normal taxi, bus, 3-wheel tuk tuk, on the back of a scooter, or (my favorite) the elevated Sky Train.

I’m also relieved that it is much cheaper than Hong Kong (and the U.S.) although admittedly I haven’t taken full advantage of it yet.  You see, my friend Bala has been here for a few nights, as well as his friend (and now my friend) Kaspar.   To maximize social time, I deviated from my planned thrifty route, and booked a room at their hotel, Courtyard by Marriott.  We enjoyed a few nights out at upper end locations that serve at roughly U.S. prices.  For a couple of nights mid-week, I switched hotels to LeFenix at Soi 11 – for a change of scenery and budget management. It was 1/3 the price of the Marriott (and yes probably 1/3 as nice).

There was a second social rendezvous this week – my parents were actually in town as part of their group tour of Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand!  They were staying at the fancy Shangri-La Hotel.  I met them (as well as quite a few of their tour group members) both Thursday and Friday for happy hour at the hotel.

By Saturday, my parents and friends had all left, and I had booked my flight on Monday to Phuket.  At that point, I will get back on budget and also get going on my volunteering and/or sailing efforts.

Other than these social outings, the week was full of simply exploring the streets of Bangkok.  I spent one day wandering around the Grand Palace and nearby temples, one of which housed a huge “Reclining Buddha.”  I took a ride on the Chao Praya river in a long boat, enjoying the spray of the waves hitting my face in the heat…until I started thinking about how clean (or not clean) the water is.  I wandered around random streets, looking for knick-knacks and researching the price/process for getting a custom suit or shirts made.  (In the end, I opted to wait until my return to Bangkok in December.)  On the weekend, I meandered through the huge outdoor market at the north end of town and bought a few souvenirs.

The food was also amazing.  Several days we took advantage of the heavy appetizers at the hotel happy hour.  But we also ate out several times at a few traditional Thai restaurants (Mazarro, Erawan Tea Room, and Queen of Curry, to name a few).  And we spent one evening at a cool Jazz restaurant/bar.  As tempting as it looks, I have been doing my best to avoid "street food".  Though one night Kaspar and I indulged in "Taco Taxi" tacos (which was Bangkok's version of a taco truck, I guess.  Needless to say, my stomach isn't feeling 100%, but I think I'll survive.

On Monday morning, November 9, I caught a flight to the island of Phuket, where I will look for sailing opportunities.  As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I am relieved to be out of the craziness of Bangkok.  As different as it is, the big city nature of it still just reminds me of being back home at work and not really "getting away".

The Grand Palace

My new friend.

This was the inside of a taxi we took.  Complete with disco lights, disco ball, and music turned up ALL the way.  Man it was loud!

I've had some amazing food here!

Halloween in Hong Kong

From San Francisco, I had to fly through Hong Kong to get to Thailand, so I decided to spend a couple of days there, including Halloween.  

I hiked up to "The Peak" for a great view of the city, while watching 99.9% of the tourists take the cable car up the steep incline.  There were a few amazing mansions nestled on the hillside. 

I also strolled through Hong Kong Park, including the aviary, and poked along the crowded streets window shopping and people watching.

I was lucky to have a couple of friends in town as well, who showed me particular neighborhoods, restaurants, bars, and in one case, a private social club with an amazing view of the harbor.

Then came Halloween.  My friends had left.  So I was on my own.  At first I was going to avoid it, but then I thought, "What the hell...why NOT go to the most crowded, wild place, just to say I did."  That was the famous Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) district.

What a mob scene it was.  Wow.  First, a long line of costume-clad pedestrians wound through the barricaded streets just to enter the fenced-off LKF district.  Second, we funnelled through a heavily guarded entrance.  Third, once inside, the first 100 meters or so was like the Red Carpet at the Academy Awards.  The sidewalk was lined with photographers (some definitely amateur, maybe some professional) who snapped away at the funny, fancy, grotesque, and/or sexy costumes.  

I was not in costume.  (My first costume-less Halloween in as long as I can remember.)  So I felt a little weird walking the Red Carpet.  At one point, just to be funny, I threw up my hands as to indicate "Hey, what about me?  Doesn't anyone want a picture of ME?"  And immediately the camera-wielding crowd thought that was funny, and snapped away at me.  It turned out to be a long night and a mess getting home.  But I made it.

Overall, Hong Kong was a lot of fun.  But then again, by the third day, I was ready to leave and get on with my journey in Thailand. 

The view from "The Peak" in Hong Kong.

In Hong Kong Park...

A bird nibbles on some treats in Hong Kong Park aviary.

The "red carpet" treatment in the LFK district in Hong Kong on Halloween.

A New Beginning

Today is the day.  A new beginning. The real deal.  I'm headed to southeast Asia on a one-way ticket.  

My plan is to visit Hong Kong, Thailand, Myanmar, and Cambodia.  But that's it.  That's where the plan stops.  I don't know what I'm going to see, where I'm going to stay, what I'm going to do, how I will get around, where I will go after that, or when exactly I will return to the United States.

Of course, I have a few general objectives.  I want to volunteer.  I want to sail.  I want to use local transportation to get from point A to B.  I want to take a path less traveled, and stay away from heavy tourist areas.  I want to work on my photography skills.  I want to improve this site.

I will continue to search www.helpx.net and www.findacrew.net to identify opportunities for volunteering or sailing.  I also plan to loiter around marinas or beach areas in search of skippers needing crew or boats needing maintenance.

I have two small backpacks.  One with clothes (about 5 outfits, a waterproof layer, and sleep sack), and one with electronics (computer, DSLR, GoPro, external hard drive, and a backup iPhone).  Whatever I've forgotten, I will buy on the road.  Whatever I have that I don't need, I will give away.

As I mentioned in my last post, Chile was familiar territory and a huge success as a trial run.  Now, even though I have been to parts of Asia before, I really feel like I am venturing into the unknown... 

Anything could happen.  I could do anything.  And that's an amazing feeling.

Traveling as light as possible for a trip of unknown length... 

Rest, Recovery, Relaunch

I returned from Germany on October 6 to regroup and prepare for my upcoming 3-month trip to southeast Asia.  This will be the first major leg of my journey.  Chile was a test run, in a country that I'm familiar with and in a language that I speak.  (And Germany was just a normal vacation with friends.) 

I haven’t had a lot to write about these last few weeks, as I take care of some administrative things:  applying for travel visas, paying utility bills, servicing cars, researching volunteer opportunities in southeast Asia, etc. 

I have enjoyed catching up with some of you in person or online.  In our conversations, many of you have commented, "Oh, I'm so jealous" or "You're living the life I want."  

Ah, life on the road seems glamorous, doesn’t it?

Yes, sometimes it is.  I enjoy the leisurely pace of not really needing to be anywhere or do anything.  For example, last week instead of taking the bus or UBER to my destination, I just strolled across San Francisco in my flip flops, enjoying the sights and sounds (and amazing October weather).  And I’m certainly looking forward to relaxing among the islands of southeast Asia. 

But recently, there have been plenty of non-glamorous moments as I try to live "homeless" in one of the most expensive areas in the country.  I’ve changed clothes in my car, done laundry at the laundromat, eaten lunch in the grocery store, and “borrowed” WIFI while parked outside Starbucks to avoid buying a second cup of coffee.  (I'm on a budget, remember.)

I would like to publicly thank several friends who have hosted me at their homes (or boats) so that I can avoid hotels and Airbnb.  And I’m grateful to so many more friends who have made similar offers.  (Rain check?)

In a couple of days, I depart for Hong Kong, and then Thailand.  I don’t have any plan, as of yet – other than to meet my parents for dinner in Bangkok.  (Crazy, but they will be there at the same time as me!)  From Thailand, I may venture into Cambodia and/or Myanmar as well.

As for volunteering and sailing, I’ve decided to figure it out once I’m there.  In particular, for sailing, I want to make sure I meet the skipper and inspect the sailing vessel in person before hopping aboard.   For volunteering, Chile was a huge success and I expect the same from Thailand.  I am less familiar with the country, so I want to do some exploring before I commit to a certain location for extended volunteering.

See you in 2016, San Francisco!

Reunion in Bavaria

I spent the last week in Germany, on what has become an every-other-year (at least) reunion of friends.   Adam and Ulf are friends of mine from business school.  Over the years of hanging out with Ulf in Germany for skiing, hiking, and celebrating birthdays, I have become friends with several of his close friends as well.   

I arrived in Munich, Germany, on Sunday, September 27.  I took the train from the airport directly to Oktoberfest (locally known as Wiesn) where I met Uli, my gracious host for the week.  We ditched my bag in the bushes at a friend’s office building (shhh… don’t tell anyone) and headed into our favorite beer tent. 

Even though this was my fifth visit to Wiesn, I was still as excited as the first time.  There is just something about it.

• Is it the traditional Bavarian outfits that people wear so proudly?
• Is it the songs that the band plays and the crowd sings along to?
• Is it the immense decorative wooden tents that fill with laughter, cheering, and singing?
• Is it the neighborly feeling that allows you, in fact welcomes you, to join a table of strangers?
• Is it the endless supply of beer, roasted chicken, and pretzels that come in huge portions?

One thing is for certain - my friends always show me a great time.  I really appreciate going with them.  I feel like I get a much more authentic experience hanging out with “locals” (even though some of them are actually from northern Germany).  They navigate our group into the best tents, with the best beer, food, and crowds.  

We have come up with a list of “Rules of Wiesn” that we like to remind each other of, should a violation occur.  I won’t repeat the entire list here, but in case any of you readers are thinking about a visit to Wiesn in the future, here are a few of our rules:

1. Don’t buy stuff.  (E.g., souvenirs, rabbit ears, etc.)
2. Never finish your beer.  (It's probably warm by the time you get to the bottom.)
3. Never pour the remnants of your old beer into your new beer.  (Why contaminate fresh cold beer with your warm stale beer remnants?)
4. Eat.
5. Hold your beer the “right” way.  (i.e., Hold the mug (called a mass) with your left hand, so that as you drink, your lips touch the mass at a spot on the rim where fewer lips have touched.  Most people drink with their favored right hand.  Alternatively, you can hold with your right hand, but twist the mass a bit so you drink from the spot just above the handle, thereby also avoiding the most common spot on the rim.  We’re sure the masses are clean, but then again you never know.  Also, if you are a man, NEVER hold the mass with the palm of your hand – use the handle to show that you are strong enough to hold the heavy mass.)

We spent four days at Wiesn, which was plenty from both a health and financial standpoint.

Over the four days, our group of friends trickled in from other parts of Germany.  By Thursday, all seven of us were here, so we started the second part of our week:  a hiking trip in Austria.

On Thursday afternoon, we made the 90-minute drive to Pertisau, Austria, for hiking in the Alps.  The town itself is small, nestled in a valley at the edge of a lake called Achensee. We stayed at the Einwaller Hotel, which included breakfasts and dinners.

We took two long hikes over the weekend.  The first hike included a 3-hour ascent to a 2,000 meter peak, which gave us a spectacular 360 degree view.  It was beautiful but also pretty windy and cold.  We stayed there long enough for lunch, but then headed back down a different trail, which turned out to be a bit longer and more technical.

The second day we took a longer but easier route, which still had magnificent views.   We stopped at a couple of huts along the way.  At the first hut, we had buttermilk, a traditional drink in this part of Austria.  At the second hut, we had weissbier and schnapps while enjoying the view and warm sunshine. 

On Sunday, we drove back to Berg, changed our clothes and headed off to Wiesn for the final night of the festival.  It was a great time to have all of us (plus a few other friends) together for that final night.

Needless to say, today has been day of rest, recovery, and rehydration.  And saying goodbye to great friends.  Danke!

On the Road Again

After flying back from Chile on Tuesday, I spent the next 3 days in the San Francisco Bay Area doing laundry, changing gear, reading mail, and seeing a few friends.  I even got to go on an overnight sailing trip in the Bay! 

Without a house to return to, I bounced around from hotel, to AirBnB, to boat... So even though I was "home," it didn't exactly feel like it.  Fortunately, my stay was only a few days.  It will be interesting to see what happens when I return in October for possibly three weeks!  A few friends have been gracious enough to offer me a room.  (Thank you!)

I'm now at the San Francisco International Airport waiting for my flight to Munich, Germany, connecting through London.  I am excited because I have friends in Germany that are always so fun to hang out with, especially during Oktoberfest, or Wiesn as the locals call it.  I've lost track, but I think this will be my 5th time at Wiesn.  We will spend a few days drinking beer and eating rotisserie chicken, then work it all off with a hike in the Alps.  

Something tells me maybe we should reverse the order of events next time...Nevertheless, I'm happy to be on the road again.

I'm testing out a couple new items in my kit.  First, I have a new primary backpack that is carry-on size.  Against my own sense of aesthetics and style, this pack is more of a traveling-backpack than a backpacking-backpack.  I guess I'm getting a little older so function is ruling over form.  Second, after a month of being cold in Chile, I invested in a new mid-weight fleece hoodie from Arc'teryx as my day to day outer wear, plus I'm bringing my lightweight down vest.  These, in addition to my full waterproof pants and jacket, will be great on the hike.  Third, I'm leaving my big DSLR camera (and its special small pack) at home, and instead I'm bringing my CamelBak as my second bag.  This will also be useful on the hike, whereas I didn't want to lug my DSLR around on the hike (or Wiesn, for that matter).  

When I have time, maybe I'll publish a short list of my entire kit.  (I've read a few adventure books and that seems to be something that is often included in the appendix.)  Perhaps I'll do that in November, when the third and longest leg of my journey begins.  

For now, it's time to catch my flight...  Servus!

Sunset over San Francisco Bay on Friday night, the evening before my departure to Munich, Germany.  Spent the night anchored in a cove on "Miss T," my favorite Beneteau 37.

Stay Tuned...

I'm recuperating in the San Francisco Bay area for a few days, doing laundry, changing gear, etc.

Then off to Germany this Saturday, September 26.

Also, I'm doing a little reconstruction to the site, so don't be alarmed if you see some stuff move around...

Not Goodbye, Just "Hasta Luego"

I’m back in the Bay Area now, lounging by the pool at the Sheraton Palo Alto, thanks to a friend who was willing to share his suite with me.  I'm in a bit of culture shock going from remote Isla Tenglo to the heart of Silicon Valley in just 24 hours.  (I avoided the long bus ride and just flew up to Santiago from Puerto Montt, which shaved at least 12 hours off the trip home.)  Anyway, I figured I'd make a final post about life on Isla Tenglo:

After 25 days on Isla Tenglo and the surrounding islands, I spent my last night at Casa Roja in front of the wood-burning stove with a glass of wine reflecting on my first volunteering travel experience.   

My immediate thought was how lucky I was to have Christian as my host.  He provided me with an experience that was exactly what I was looking for:  a combination of volunteering, sailing, and adventure.  A lot of people have asked me, “How did you find and decide on Isla Tenglo?”  It was because Christian offered these three elements via his post on www.helpx.net, and he delivered big time.

The volunteering opportunities were meaningful and appropriately leveled for a city slicker like me:  painting, gardening, pruning, hauling, teaching English, etc.  I enjoyed the physical aspect, and luckily nothing required sophisticated skills in carpentry, plumbing, or electrical.   Christian allowed me to choose from a variety of options, and was flexible with my preferences.  I enjoyed helping the local families, being invited into their homes for breakfasts and lunches, and learning about their daily lives.

The sailing-related opportunities were equally fantastic.  Working with David at Club Nautico Reloncavi, I had the chance to learn more about the mechanics and systems of big cruising boats.  Plus we went on three different weekend sailing trips down to Isla Puluqui with Christian and his family to work on their vacation cottage.  These were fun trips highlighted by bonfires, barbecues, and a true group effort on renovating the cottage.

The adventure aspect of the experience was the most challenging but one that I was able to overcome.  By the third week, I had even fallen into a pretty comfortable routine. 

The days themselves weren’t very long.  I was usually awake at 8am, ate breakfast with one of the families around 10am, and worked until about 5pm (stopping for lunch).  If I was on the mainland, I would stick around and use the yacht club’s internet or go shopping until 7pm, and then take one of the last boat taxis home by 8pm (which was sort of like a curfew).  No crazy bar hopping or socializing because the island is entirely residential (with only a few hundred people, I’ve now learned).  I was usually in bed with a book by 10pm.  ("Walking the Amazon" and "Godforsaken Sea").

Although I was awake for only 12-14 hours, they were tough hours:  fighting the cold wind and rain, doing physical labor that my body was not used to, and managing my emotions as I coped with the isolation.  Little things like laundry or sponge-showers (heating hot water on the stove and then using it to bathe) took longer than I was used to.  I learned to plan ahead – making sure I knew what I was going to do with those few minutes of WIFI at the Club, and making sure I had a shopping list for the store on the mainland.   If I forgot to do or buy something, I couldn’t just run out later on a quick errand.  

In the end, I felt good about my adaptation and would have liked to stay – especially because the weather was getting warmer with the approach of summer, and I was getting the hang of things.  I will miss Isla Tenglo and Isla Puluqui, Casa Roja, Christian, and his family. 

But I have to move on to the next adventure.  Germany is next.  I depart on Saturday, September 26.  Then I’m targeting Southeast Asia in November/December.  Then perhaps in January I will return to visit my new friends in Southern Chile.

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t excited for at least a few days back in San Francisco this week to re-connect with friends, do some sailing, and take care of nagging administrative things.   It does, however, feel a bit weird to be coming ‘home’ yet to be homeless.  (Remember, I've rented my house!)  I'll be ok, thanks to friends and/or AirBnB.

Here are a few final photos from my last week on Isla Tenglo and Isla Puluqui...  

A rainbow over Casa Roja.

The cottage on Isla Puluqui:  BEFORE our work.

The cottage on Isla Puluqui:  AFTER our work.

I was really getting into my work, and so I bought an official outfit of protective gear!

The view doesn't get much better than this... on our way back to Isla Tenglo from Isla Puluqui.  Volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco, under some cool cloud formations.

We had a couple of barbecues on the boat with fabulous carne and sides (thanks Christian, Lali, David, and Kata).   One in the evening, accompanied by wine and Christian's singing.  One in the afternoon, as we baked in the warm sun (at last)!  We topped off each meal with this amazing cake -- some kind of dulce de leche, raspberry, and whip cream layered cake.

Week Three Was a Big One, Literally

My third and final week on Isla Tenglo was quite exciting – perhaps more than I really wanted.

First, I was lucky to spend two days working on an 82-foot Swan sailboat.  It wasn’t exactly easy work.  I learned an important lesson:  the bigger the boat, the bigger (and heavier) the work.  It took four of us, plus an electric winch, to haul the sails out of the storage unit and onto the yacht.  The mast on this beauty was 120 feet tall, so you can imagine the amount of sail we were dealing with!  We lifted the sails on deck, inserted battens, secured the foot, hooked on the halyards, pre-fed the bolt rope, and hoisted the sails during a test sail out the channel.  Unfortunately this was all work, no play, so as soon as we hoisted to test the sails, we then furled them and returned to the marina.  On our return, we bought 2.5 tons of diesel fuel which was another ordeal altogether.  That must have been a big gas bill!  (Perhaps this little excursion was my 15 minutes of fame.  As I stood on deck, the locals would maneuver their motorboats alongside us to take a picture and maybe see if anyone famous was on this mega yacht.  Nope, sorry, it's just DBT).

Second, on Wednesday night, as I was relaxing at home, I received an emergency “Presidential Alert” warning of tsunamis.  Without cell phone, WIFI, or TV access, I had no idea what was going only.  I just poured another glass of wine and hoped I was safe in Casa Roja, about 100 feet above sea level.  The next morning I found out that there was a 8.3 earthquake in Santiago!  Yikes.   That’s not exactly the kind of excitement I was looking for.  Amazingly, it sounded like casualties were a lot fewer than what you might expect.  I learned through talking to people that Chile is very well prepared for earthquakes, structurally and socially.  The tsunami alert worked very well from what I gather.   (A 5.8 aftershock just hit again as I sit here in the Santiago airport at a restaurant typing this!  Yet there is no panic.  People just continue eating.  One or two people grab hold of something, but that’s it.  And they look like tourists anyway.)

Third, Friday was September 18, or “Dieciocho,” which is the day Chile celebrates its independence from Spain back in 1810.  Official independence didn’t happen until April of 1818.  I celebrated with Christian, Lali, and their family back on Isla Puluqui.  For the third weekend in a row, we worked on their cottage, but also took time out for some great hikes, bonfires, and barbecues.  This weekend, in particular, we were treated by some of Christian’s singing.

It was a great week.  I spent Sunday night and Monday morning cleaning Casa Roja.  I have mixed feelings about leaving.  More on that in my next post …

You know it's a big boat when you can sit, or take a nap, in the boom....

... or when it has two steering wheels.

Without WIFI or cell phone reception, but I still received the Presidential Alert warning of tsunamis.  

Another weekend on Isla Puluqui working on the cottage.  I hope I get invited back to enjoy it during summer!

The view from our sunset hike on Isla Puluqui... My hosts' sailboats and island cottage in the distance.  Total paradise!  There is a vacant lot here for sale that has piqued my interest...